The new L’Heure Bleue has sparked quite a discussion. Fists are waving, and noses are out of joint. It has not gone down well. Since L’Heure Bleue was never one of my favourite Guerlain’s, my nose isn’t too out of joint. They should have called it something else, but with the buzz surrounding it, this might turn out to be a marketing genius move on Guerlain’s part. Indeed, I found it to be ordinary, but not nearly as off-putting as Tabac Sahara. Let’s discuss.
Tabac Sahara belongs to the Absolus Allegoria line. I often find myself confused by this line, the name, and the bottles, mixing them up with the lighter Aqua Allegoria collection. I can’t be the only one. The Absolus Allegoria fragrances tend to highlight warmer scent profiles, featuring notes of leather, dark rose, oud, and tobacco. Guerlain should avoid this Arabic style of perfume, as it doesn’t align with their strengths. The results feel forced and scratchy. Only a couple from this range have turned out any good: the patchouli and the leather. Still, they keep producing more and stick with the perplexing name, Absolus Allegoria.
So in 2026 we get Tabac Sahara. I guess they were aiming for a hookah tobacco scent, but the fruity raspberry note makes it smell more like an artificial vape. Overall, it feels very cheap. The tobacco note lacks any depth or character. A cheap candle would do a better job of scenting a room, and in a more refined way. The amberwoods in the base only add to the disappointment.
Raspberry has never been my favoruite note, except in Tuscan Leather. So, much like the passengers on the SS Poseidon when they spotted Leslie Nielsen as their captain, I knew I was in trouble when I encountered it in the note pyramid. It sinks, and it stinks. To make matters worse, Guerlain certainly pushes the sentimentality with their marketing, using all the buzzwords: mesmerising, alluring, enchanting, and so on. They claim it is inspired by a “nocturnal journey to the heart of the desert.” Well, that certainly brings a lump to my throat—but unfortunately, in this case, it’s just my lunch!
Notes: raspberry, citrus, tobacco, red berries, rose oil, amber, woody notes, ambergris, vanilla.
Ah, well, that’s too bad. Agree that the raspberry note in Tuscan Leather works well, though. I hope you enjoyed eating the real raspberries!
The real raspberries were much better than the scent, and I’m not even a huge fan of them either. Haha. I much prefer blueberries or strawberries.
Need to try this scent, though i think it won’t be for me as well.
Let me know if you try it, Tetê.