Although most modern Amouage fragrances don’t appeal to me, I still make an effort to try most of the new releases when I can. This is perhaps more a result of the easy access we have to the line here than any strong desire to sample new fragrances from the brand. Since Salmon took over, my expectations aren’t as high as they used to be. A couple of months ago (yes, it sometimes takes me that long to get around to writing about things), I sampled Love Hibiscus, and I’m glad I did. I even went back for a second sample a month ago.
There’s something weirdly addictive about this new addition to their Secret Garden collection. It almost feels a bit moreish to wear, as if you can’t help but go back for a second serving of dessert. There’s definitely a gourmand element to the perfume. It joins Love Tuberose, Blossom Love, Love Delight and Lilac Love as the fifth scent in the Secret Garden lineup. That’s a lot of love. And with Love Hibiscus, it seems Amouage seeks to garner affection from its dyed-in-the-wool older fans and its newer fanbase.
Love Hibiscus begins with a whirlwind of notes that feel quite chaotic. Passionfruit and a good dose of caramel saltiness emerge right away. The fragrance balances savoury and sweet elements, though it has a slight artificial quality reminiscent of fruit candy. Surprisingly, this contrasting combination of savoury and spun-sugar notes works well, and the overly artificial phase doesn’t linger long on the skin. Ultimately, it leans more toward sweetness than saltiness, with plenty of ethyl maltol to appeal to a wider audience. Fortunately, it doesn’t feel overdone.
Once the opening settles, Jérôme Epinette introduces a variety of additional elements. He amps up the berry-tangy tartness with the prominent fruity hibiscus accord. However, to be honest, I don’t really picture the flower or hibiscus tea when I wear Love Hibiscus because other components begin to draw attention away from the fruity accords, leading the scent in a more intriguing direction. Heavier, woodier notes, along with incense and a fabulous orris note, start to shape the fragrance into the drydown. It’s as if Epinette and the brand are digging into the old Amouage bag of tricks and blending them with a more modern, crowd-pleasing fruity top. An attempt to appease everyone, perhaps? The orris does a lot of heavy lifting in the middle phases, creating a creamy, elegant, slightly buttery focal point that rivals the fruity notes for attention.
At first glance, with its vibrant bottle and fruity-floral heart, Love Hibiscus looks made for summer. Indeed, it has a tropical feel. It has vivid fruity notes that bring to mind cocktails and lazy days by the pool. However, its heavier woody and powdery facets might make it a bit weighty for the warm weather. Indeed, I think it might be too heavy for my humid summers. Instead, I sprayed Love Hibiscus on a cool, rainy day, and it seemed to cut through the mist beautifully. It lasted for a good 8-10 hours before becoming more of a skin scent.
Hibiscus scents can often be a complete disaster for me, as evidenced by Floraïku – Flying South – Not So Good, Al. Perhaps this has influenced my more positive impression of the Amouage fragrance. I enjoy it much more than Crivelli’s Hibiscus Mahajád, which I found to be too overpowering. I also prefer it over the tropical-themed Power of You from Emporio Armani, which some commentators have compared it to.
The Secret Garden collection seems to let Amouage experiment, kick up their heels, and let their hair down, and this is evident in Love Hibiscus. While it’s not a fragrance I would personally choose to wear, I would gladly enjoy the scent on others. Plus, it gave me a great excuse to go out and photograph my hibiscus flowers.
Official Pyramid:
Top notes: Salted caramel, passion fruit, bergamot.
Heart notes: Hibiscus, orris, frankincense.
Base notes: Sandalwood, cypriol, vanilla.
Note: Sampled in store. Bottle image from Amouage. All other images are my own.
Wonderful review! I am curious to try this scent!
Thanks very much, Tetê. Let me know what you make of it.
Daniel, your review is fantastic! I appreciate you including the beautiful hibiscus flower photos. I have a neighbor who decorates her patio with large planters of hibiscus every year. They’re always a visual treat.
Unfortunately, I rarely have the opportunity to visit stores that sell Amouage. This past week, I went to Neiman Marcus, and guess what? They no longer have Amouage in-store; they only sell it online. That meant I missed out on sampling Love Hibiscus or any other Amouage fragrance I haven’t tried yet. Now, I have to “call first” before visiting any retailer that used to carry Amouage. Love Hibiscus sounds intriguing, and I’m really looking forward to trying it.
Thanks very much, Flaconneur. Yes, they’re lovely to look at. Very photogenic. That’s a shame about availability. Hopefully distribution can change. It’s a little odd, because to me it seems that their scent profiles are becoming more in line with the mainstream. One would think they’d want a physical presence in store. Hopefully it changes for you, Flaconneur.