Ah yeah. That hits the spot! In my last post, I discussed Nordic Fougère, the fougère that really wasn’t a fougère. Dunhill Signature Collection – Nordic Fougère and Egyptian Smoke – Decent Value. Today’s scent rights the ship. I can tell immediately I’m going to enjoy Vesprée, Bienaimé’s latest launch for men. This dark composition by Marie Schnirer serves as a nighttime companion to their lively scent, Monsieur Bienaimé – Monsieur – Yes Sir, A Good One. It adheres more strictly to the classical fougère format than the Dunhill, but the age-old genre has been given a gritty, shadowy makeover, alongside a few of the brand’s signature touches.
Vesprée opens with a biting lavender note that is both camphorous and powdery, reminiscent of a puff of talc. I can almost feel the barber’s blade gliding along my neck. The brand seems committed to bringing vintage back into fashion, and Vesprée doesn’t stray very far from their usual stylings. Besides lavender, the opening features a cardamom note that coats the lavender in its cooling, resinous spice.
From here, we are thrown into a complex floral heart. Powdery iris and rose combine in a nod to some of the feminine scents in the brand’s reimagined lineup. The iris is more prominent than the rose, and it has a multifaceted feel. Although it doesn’t evoke makeup-and-powder associations as strongly as the women’s range, it still carries some of that connection. Additionally, the iris features rooty, earthy, and vegetal nuances. The patchouli in the base extends this rooty, earthy, resinous phase.
Vesprée evolves into a balsamic and sweeter base, with a swirling finish of tonka bean, vanilla, Peru balsam, and benzoin. Vesprée never loses the debonair lavender impression, though, established at the outset. The ingress of patchouli and sweeter notes atop the aromatic accord evokes the ambiance of wood-paneled boardrooms filled with cigar smoke. The sweetness feels caramelised, but I wouldn’t call this a gourmand by any means. The benzoin, in particular, provides a warm, rich anchor for the aromatic accord.
And it’s this sweeter finish that leads to the following reference points: The fusion of lavender, vanilla, and benzoin notes immediately made me think of classics such as Jicky and Caron Pour Un Homme. It lacks the animalic growl of Jicky, but undoubtedly Vesprée descends from these fragrances. Additionally, if you’re a fan of the wood-spiced patchouli in Guerlain’s Heritage, you might also find Vesprée appealing.
I doubt I would choose Vesprée over Monsieur as a daily driver. It lacks the vibrant, easy-breezy character that Monsieur offers. However, I do prefer Vesprée over the women’s fragrances from this brand. That line venerated vintage to the point that it ultimately brought nothing new to the table. Vesprée achieves a nicer balance, separating itself from other vintage scents by surprisingly never becoming too dense. Still, Vesprée lasted for an impressive 10 hours on my skin. Sean Connery famously wore Jicky. Vesprée, with its dashing profile, could work for the modern Bond, whoever that may be.
Notes:
Head: Cardamom, bergamot, lavender, carrot seed, celery seed.
Heart: Peru balsam, rose, geranium, iris.
Base: Vetiver, benzoin, vanilla, cedar, labdanum, tonka bean, sandalwood.
Note: Bottle image from the brand. All other images are my own. Sample purchased by me.
Great review and captures!
Thanks very much, Tetê.
High praise from you for Vesprée! It’s probably not something I would wear, but it sounds like a clean profile I wouldn’t mind smelling on someone else (especially if they are dressed like a Bond).