Frédéric Malle – Contre-Jour – Ménardo’s First For The Brand 

I don't get nearly as excited for a Frédéric Malle scent as I used to. Their lackluster recent releases (Uncut Gem, Acne Studios, etc.) and the departure of the brand's editor have further dampened my enthusiasm. The thrill is gone, as BB King would say. Well, not quite. My ears pricked up when I heard … Continue reading Frédéric Malle – Contre-Jour – Ménardo’s First For The Brand 

Parfums MDCI – Vetyver Messager – Vetiver In A New Light?

Over the years, Parfums MDCI has slipped from my stream of consciousness and completely fallen off my radar. They made such a rollicking entrance when they debuted over 20 years ago. Their Chypre, their amber, and most notably, Invasion Barbare won the hearts of discerning perfume lovers all over the world. However, for various reasons—most … Continue reading Parfums MDCI – Vetyver Messager – Vetiver In A New Light?

Scrub Or Spray? – Akro Crush / Goldfield & Banks – Rose Magnitude / Eris – Mother’s Milk / Jo Malone – Amber Labdanum Cologne Intense

Sometimes I find it challenging to write extensively about certain perfumes, leaving me with little content to fill a full blog post. Still, I think some of these fragrances are worth discussing. For these particular perfumes, I'll gather them in one post, providing brief impressions and a conclusion on whether they're best suited for scrubbing … Continue reading Scrub Or Spray? – Akro Crush / Goldfield & Banks – Rose Magnitude / Eris – Mother’s Milk / Jo Malone – Amber Labdanum Cologne Intense

Manos Gerakinis – Sillage X – A Fitting Way To Celebrate

Sillage X is a well-crafted fragrance from the Greek brand Manos Gerakinis, released in 2024 to commemorate the company's 10th anniversary. I've noticed this refined, thoughtful approach in a few of their other releases as well, and I believe they're one of the few brands truly worth exploring. Rather than chasing trends or releasing thousands of … Continue reading Manos Gerakinis – Sillage X – A Fitting Way To Celebrate

27 87 Perfumes – Hakuna Matata – Banana Mania

Sometimes you have to laugh. Especially when it's something as insignificant in the scheme of things as perfume. Yes, we all take it seriously, but we're crazy. Rodrigo Flores-Roux and the folks at 27 87 don't seem to take themselves too seriously. Take, for example, their 2025 offering, Hakuna Matata, which features an uncommon banana … Continue reading 27 87 Perfumes – Hakuna Matata – Banana Mania

Arquiste – Tropical – Solar Surprise

Earlier this year, I wrote about the three latest releases from Arquiste Arquiste – Venice Rococo, Almond Suede and A Grove By The Sea. Surprisingly, I found that I enjoyed A Grove By The Sea the most, despite it featuring figs. Indeed, it was far more than just a fig fragrance, possessing a strong backbone … Continue reading Arquiste – Tropical – Solar Surprise

Frassaï – Ajedrez – Atmospheric Chess Game – A New Favourite

Back in 2013, Ralf Schwieger composed one of my favorite iris scents, Iris Nazarena, for Aedes de Venustas. Some people interpreted this fragrance, like many iris scents, as cold and gloomy. However, as it unfolded on my skin, it felt so regal, evoking the image of a noble gentleman reclining in his leather armchair in … Continue reading Frassaï – Ajedrez – Atmospheric Chess Game – A New Favourite

Isabelle Larignon – Mandi Rhubi – Rhubarb Cologne

Now and again, I need to do a factory reset on my nose. It's usually after I've been exposed to too many woody amber scents with their spiky, uninviting drydowns, like last week's Ormonde Jayne – Vetiveria – From Fizz To Flat. Maybe I should call it an olfactory palate cleansing. I typically accomplish this … Continue reading Isabelle Larignon – Mandi Rhubi – Rhubarb Cologne

Clue Perfumery – Dandelion Butter – Sappy Green

I'd read a lot of positive feedback about Clue Perfumery, a new niche house from the US, based in Chicago. Flaconneur had posted on the brand last year on his blog https://perfumuschicago.wordpress.com/2024/08/17/get-a-clue/, and it had piqued my interest. As my sister was returning to Australia from New York in July, I thought it might be … Continue reading Clue Perfumery – Dandelion Butter – Sappy Green