In recent years, I’ve lagged behind in sampling the newer releases from the once-audacious and innovative brand Etat Libre d’Orange (ELDO). Too many perfumes, too little time! Amid the rise of new brands and increased competition, ELDO seemed to shift away from creative formulas toward more conventional compositions. The brand suddenly seemed uninspiring. I feel they’ve been in a bit of an artistic malaise since You or Someone Like You in 2017. While I still enjoy some of their perfumes from this period, it would be difficult to describe titles like “You or Someone Like You,” “Frustration,” “I am Trash,” or “Exit the King” as particularly revolutionary.
Nonetheless, they’ve built up enough goodwill with me over the years, and since this year marks their 20th anniversary, I decided to revisit the brand and sample their last three releases. Here are my thoughts on “Story Of Your Life,” “Above The Waves,” and “Let’s Pretend.”
Story Of Your Life (Jérôme Di Marino) 2024
Notes:
Top notes: Cistus essence, davana essence, benzoin Siam pure JE™.
Heart notes: Laurel essence, orange blossom absolute, brioche accord.
Base notes: Rum pure JE™, vanilla infusion & absolute, amber wood.
There’s an unpleasant burnt quality to Story Of Your Life. Ultimately, it comes off as rather cheap and unpleasant, especially during the drydown, when the sharpness of ambery woody material begins to intrude. While the brand lists a brioche accord or fresh bread in its note pyramid, it actually smells more crumbly, nutty, and biscuit-like than like bread. At least it avoids any sickly sweet connotations. However, the combination of vanilla, rum, and amberwood in the drydown feels like going over old olfactory ground. It’s too scratchy, and I’m not sure I would willingly wear this in public. Thumbs down.
Above The Waves (Mathieu Nardin) 2025
Notes:
Top notes: Bergamot, cardamom, incense.
Heart notes: Green maté, Ceylon tea, black tea, rose.
Base notes: Tonka bean, cedar, vetiver.
The name “Above The Waves” may be somewhat misleading. At first glance, one might expect a nineties-throwback aquatic scent that brings back unwanted memories of yesteryear. However, Mathieu Nardin instead delivers a fragrance reminiscent of a serene forest, leaning more towards a grounded aromatic profile than a Calone calamity.
Indeed, Above The Waves draws on an aquatic theme. It’s inspired by the sea goddess Mazu, who, in Taiwanese culture, protects sailors. Yet, the prominent tea notes in this fragrance remind me more of Buddhist temples than turbulent fishing trips.
Several tea notes form the backbone of Above The Waves, coming together to create a harmonious, light, smoky, and slightly spicy scent. It borrows smoky tea notes from Miller Harris’s Tea Tonique and hints of slightly sour rose notes from Le Labo’s Thé Noir 29. However, it feels a bit more unassuming than both, particularly lacking the bite of Thé Noir 29. Above The Waves becomes crisper and more aromatic in the base than either the Miller Harris or the Le Labo, as vetiver and ISO E Super guide it toward a greener, earthier finish. Overall, it is much smoother than Story of Your Life. Thumbs up.
Let’s Pretend (Nisrine Bouazzaoui Grillié) 2026
Notes:
Top notes: Saffron, pink pepper, mandarin essence.
Heart notes: Peach, osmanthus flower absolute, jasmine sambac absolute.
Base notes: Woody accord (cedar, Akigalawood & Georgywood), styrax, benzoin.
I’m a bit confused by Let’s Pretend. The first time I wore it, I loved it, but on subsequent occasions I noticed some of the gloss had worn off. This past weekend, I decided to wear it again before finalising my thoughts, and I enjoyed it once more. I believe it should be applied sparingly; if you spray too much, the sour woody base tends to take over.
Let’s Pretend is a fruity floral featuring the flavor-of-the-month note of peach. The opening smells mouth-wateringly juicy, with ELDO celebrating their 20th birthday in exuberant style. The peach and mandarin give the fragrance a bubbly effervescence. It comes close to shampoo territory, but for me, it almost mimics the buoyant champagne quality found in the brand’s Remarkable People.
As the fragrance evolves, the floral notes in the middle phases lend a sultry and heady quality. Jasmine introduces a honeyed, green-tea facet, while the peach note opens up as Let’s Pretend transforms into a velvety, lush aroma. The osmanthus adds a leathery character, binding everything together beautifully. Overall, it’s a lovely composition, but I remain somewhat unconvinced.
I’ve sprayed the fragrance a couple of times, and I found that the Givaudan base notes can become overpowering. Fragrances containing Akigalawood sometimes turn artificial, sour, and metallic on my skin. I experienced this with Let’s Pretend, particularly when I oversprayed the fragrance. This reaction occurred only on my skin, not on fabric or a scent strip. Because of this, it’s hard for me to fully give this new release a thumbs-up, although I do appreciate certain aspects of the fragrance. Ultimately, this is one you’ll need to test for yourself.
Summary
I’m not blown away by any of these three fragrances. Story of Your Life isn’t anything to write home about, but I am glad I sampled both Above The Waves and Let’s Pretend. Above The Waves feels like the more fully formed composition, delivering from start to finish. In sporting vernacular, Let’s Pretend feels like a tale of two halves, as its strong, juicy opening is marred by a dry, sour second half.
ELDO certainly burst onto the scene 20 years ago, with their controversial fragrance names and blends, and has made a significant impact on the fragrance industry. While many brands, such as Born To Stand Out, have tried to replicate their success, they seem to have overlooked the most crucial element: creating a truly good fragrance. ELDO hit the mark many times over the years. I’m happy they are still around.
Although ELDO may have toned down their cheeky and provocative approach, they still remain a significant brand in the industry. I always suggest that newcomers explore their back catalogue. Perhaps these recent releases reflect the brand’s maturity as it celebrates its 20th anniversary. They are no longer a rebellious teenager and have nothing left to prove. Happy Birthday to ELDO! I’ll raise a glass and wear Remarkable People in celebration. Here’s to many more years of success!
Have you sampled any of these fragrances? Do you have any favourites from the brand? I think I need to revisit their line myself.
Note: Above The Waves bottle images courtesy of ELDO. All other images are my own. Samples purchased by me.
Remarkable People is probably my favorite from them. I really liked I Am Trash, too (that strawberry note!), but it doesn’t last long enough – I bet the same formula with the first run of the materials (rather than upcycled) would work well.
It does seem counterintuitive to smell tea notes in conjunction with a name like Above the Waves. The temple connection is spot on as there are several temples to Mazu in Taiwan. I also just read that people give her offerings of tea as well. Nice to see a bit of Taiwanese culture represented in a French perfume brand!
Remarkable People is a good one. I remember enjoying I Am Trash. It reminded me a little bit of Black XS for Men from Paco Rabanne. Both have that strawberry note. Yes, the tea note was a bit of a surprise, but it all came together nicely. High teas instead of high seas. It was exclusive to Taiwan for quite a while, before getting a worldwide release.
Out of the three, Daniel, Above the Waves might be the most intriguing to me. I’ve noticed that Etat Libre d’Orange has become somewhat of a ghost of its former self.
Yes, it’s the best of these three, I think. Yes, many of these older niche brands have become a shell of their former selves. L’Artisan comes to mind.
The only scent from the brand that i’ve ever bought is Jasmin et Cigarettes, which I find quite original and wearable. Thanks for your overview , I am curious about Above the waves.
Yes, that one is great, such a well done floral, and indeed original. Above the Waves is worth a sample.