I never intended to order a sample of Tobacco Honey from eBay. Last year, while perusing the site, I came across a sample of Vétiver Fauve for sale. Knowing that this fragrance line is particularly difficult to find in Australia, I ordered the sample and had it sent to my sister’s apartment. Imagine my horror (well, that’s overstating it a bit), imagine my disappointment when I opened the package and found Tobacco Honey instead. Fortunately, I managed to get a refund, but I still have never tried the vetiver, and I’m left with a bit of a lemon of a sample. Tobacco Honey wasn’t something I was particularly eager to try, and after wearing it a few times, I can confirm it is not for me. Here are my thoughts.
Tobacco Honey forms part of the L’Art & La Matière collection. It’s a 2023 release, and the perfumer behind the fragrance is Delphine Jelk. Incorporating honey into a fragrance is challenging, and unfortunately, I don’t believe Guerlain has succeeded with Tobacco Honey. There are obscene levels of the stuff in this perfume, and it renders it so sweet that I felt my enamel dissolving the moment I sprayed it. The overwhelming honey overdose is like incessant laser light beams glaring into your vision—it’s quite off-putting. Consequently, there’s little room for nuance. Instead, we’re left with a saccharine, treacly, cloying mess of a perfume. Indeed, very much on brand for this overrated, overpriced line.
Yes, there’s some tobacco, vanilla, and tonka. But that’s a profile we’ve seen a million times before. Additionally, the pyramid mentions oud, sesame, and anise. However, I have a hard time picking them out through the thick, gooey gloop of honey. I find it similar to Tobacco Vanille, Naxos, and cohort, and I’m sure it will find many fans. It’ll probably be a best seller, since these sorts of warm, sweet fragrances always find an audience. Many adore this line from Guerlain, but it’s just not my thing. I’ve worn Tobacco Honey three times, and the first two times it projected strongly for over 12 hours. The third time, I had to save my flailing faculties, so I washed it off after 30 minutes. Three strikes and you’re out, Tobacco Honey. I’ll stick with the classics.
Top: honey, cloves, anise.
Mid: tobacco, vanilla, tonka, sesame.
Base: oud, sandalwood.
Note: Bottle image from Guerlain. The other images are mine.
Sorry to hear that you intended purchase of a sample of Vétiver Fauve was a wolf in sheep’s clothing. During a visit to Neiman Marcus, I had the chance to sample almost every perfume in the L’Art & La Matière collection. While I didn’t mind Tobacco Honey, I completely understand your dislike for it. In my opinion, it’s a stretch for Guerlain. The perfume lacks a stronger tobacco presence and should save the excessive honey for a more appealing camembert cheese. Comparing it to Tobacco Vanille is out of the question, as the key ingredient, honey, is absent. Not a great perfume for such a great house. Hopefully you’ll get the chance to sample Vétiver Fauve soon.
Thanks, Flaconneur. Yes, I admit I don’t live in a climate where Tobacco Honey would work, but there’s just too much honey. I think it would get on my nerves even in a more hospitable environment. That’s true, Tobacco Vanille might not be the best comparison. Perhaps Tobacolor with its two pronged attack of honey and tobacco might be a closer one. But, that’s an even bigger mess than the Guerlain. Camambert Cheese! Now that would be something in a perfume. I wonder which well known house would dare to try. ELDO perhaps in their more eccentric days. I think Hilde Soliani might have a cheese scent. Haha.
I agree, Tobacolor is by far a bigger mess. Funny enough, the only one I could find from Hilde Soliani Profumi with cheese is called Mmm (notes of Basil, Butter, Cheese and Frankincense). Bon appétit!
The Dior is bad, but I’d be willing to bet that Hilde Soliani might be worse.
I agree with you, the scent is overwhelmingly sweet and similar to TF and other releases. I still need to try the vetiver one as well.
Glad you agree, Tetê. Yes, I see the vetiver one contains cypriol. I don’t have the highest hopes. I often find that material quite scratchy. I still want to sample it, though.
Yes I pretty much agree with you Daniel, and just way too expensive imo. I’m glad you survived your unintended ordeal! 😅
Hahaha. I appreciate your concern. Thanks, Marcus.
Glad you at least got a refund. I don’t think this would be for me at all either, though I’m basing that assumption on the mention of cloves and anise. Not a fan of prominent honey in perfumes either.
Based on that, I would say this is one to avoid, Nose Prose.
A whole different level of niche, but we found the same thing to be true with Tobacco 01 from Swiss Arabian. Very sweet, and not in a bad way, but in way we weren’t expecting from a scent having tobacco in the title. Still, its the journey for us. We are new to the scent game, still learning. Fell in love immediately with Incense, oriental and ceremonials. But we are branching out. We want to start buying roses and were thinking soemthing Montale Intense Cafe. Something bold, not too subtle. Its your style. Recommendations welcome.
Absolutely, Grenouille. The Swiss Arabian is much more affordable, so it has that going for it. The Montale is certainly bold, and much more rose than coffee. In saying that, there are many other rose scents I would choose instead. For instance any of the Frederic Malle scents are worth a try: Rose and Cuir, Portrait of a Lady, Rose Tonnerre. Serge Lutens released a good rose a couple of years back called La Fille Tour de Fer. They also have La Fille de Berlin. There’s Guerlain’s Nahema. Others I would recommend include ELDO Eau de Protection and Masque Milano Love Kills. Last year I really enjoyed a couple of roses from new niche brands: Reservation, Feu de Rose and Anti Rosa Antiqua. If you can find it Elie Saab Essence No 1 Rose is a favourite. There’s so many. I like fresh roses like Dior Ambre Nuit and Chanel Paris Paris also. I hope that helps, and happy sampling.
Great! Now I have a list. Anti has actually been on my list for some time, but last time I looked they are sold out everywhere. I really want to try Bast from them as well. But I refuse to blind buy something that expensive my taste is niche, my wallet is middle Eastern. 🤣
Haha. Fair enough. I hope you get to try Anti. I found something to like about all the scents in the collection. Bast is one I’m sure you would appreciate, given your enjoyment of incense fragrances.
Yikes! Haven’t tried it yet, but from the sound of it I shouldn’t be making a beeline (sorry, couldn’t help myself) for it, dear Daniel. This great post did make me think of a honey scent done very well, though: Cartier L’Envol.
Hahaha. Very good, Rich. You’re right, the Cartier is an excellent one.