Black Oregano, the latest extrait in Atelier Materi’s portfolio, stands out as the most compelling to date. As per the previous three Atelier Materi – Extraits – Essentially More Of The Same, it’s signed by Céline Perdriel. Right from the start, I pick up on the scent of leather, which gives the impression of dark brown, slightly rough leather—more akin to that found in a well-used car than in a pristine handbag. Initially, it presents an animalic character, but it smooths out after about 30 minutes. I enjoy how this brand conveys leather in its perfumes. Their Cuir Nilam is worth a sample. However, it’s a touch too close to Ombré Leather Parfum to be truly noteworthy. Vanille Carbone from last year also displayed a well-executed leather accord.
Despite its name and presence of leather, Black Oregano still maintains a quite fresh feel. Notes of lime, oregano, and rosemary keep it from becoming too weighty. The lime in the open isn’t particularly juicy; instead, it has a drier quality that complements the leather nicely and sets the stage for the herbal notes that follow. At first, Black Oregano evokes shades of brown and black. However, once the lime and herbs join the party, it begins to take on a greener shade. The most contentious aspect of Black Oregano lies in its herbal notes.
Oregano formed a major part of the famous (or infamous) Interlude Man perfume, and this herbal note may prove quite a divisive part of Black Oregano, too. Certainly, it gives Black Oregano a camphorous quality that might make some wearers hesitate. It’s slightly medicinal, sharp, and nose-tingling, even a touch unnerving. On top of this, rosemary contributes its aromatic freshness. Despite the strong presence of herbs, you won’t smell like an Italian restaurant or a Sunday roast, as the leather and woodier notes provide a balancing effect. While it’s not woody enough to conjure images of a dark forest, the medicinal herbs make me think of a witch’s garden or, perhaps, a monastic garden.
Some reviews mention a strong woody-amber presence in the base, but I did not experience it at all. In fact, I don’t recall encountering any crass base notes while sampling this brand. All their fragrances are tightly composed. Instead, I come away praising the intriguing contrast at play between the heavier and lighter notes in Black Oregano. There’s oud here too, contributing a fleeting smoky note, but I feel it quickly withdraws behind the leather and herbal elements. If you’re not a fan of oud, there’s no need to worry.
Over time, Black Oregano settles into a light wood-leather base, which leans toward a birch-leather profile, while the faint hint of herbs recedes into the background. Maybe I can pick up a link between Black Oregano and Eau de Citron Noir by Hermès. Both have a smoky, dry lime-like feel, but there’s no leather in the Hermès, and the woody ambers are much more apparent in Eau de Citron Noir. I prefer Black Oregano. It feels heftier, with more throw than the others in the line, and lasts between 6 and 8 hours.
Notes: Top: cardamom, rosemary, Peruvian lime.
Heart: oregano, Haitian vetiver, Australian sandalwood.
Base: Indonesian patchouli, oud, leather, cistus labdanum absolute.
Note: Sample purchased by me. Bottle image from the brand. All other photos are my own.