Sillage X is a well-crafted fragrance from the Greek brand Manos Gerakinis, released in 2024 to commemorate the company’s 10th anniversary. I’ve noticed this refined, thoughtful approach in a few of their other releases as well, and I believe they’re one of the few brands truly worth exploring. Rather than chasing trends or releasing thousands of scents at once to see what sticks, they favour a more deliberate, considered approach. Currently, their website features 14 fragrances across 4 collections, with Sillage X forming part of their Private Collection.
Sillage X isn’t an easy scent to categorise. While the marketing material pushes vetiver as the starring ingredient, it’s not as immediately obvious as the vetiver in Sycomore or Guerlain’s classic Vetiver. The opening citrus flash comes and goes quite quickly. After a few minutes, Sillage X shifts to a spicier profile, featuring the cooling note of cardamom and the herbaceous warmth of fennel seed. However, it’s the sizzle of pepper that gives Sillage X its impetus.
The black pepper note brings in its dry, smoky, woody nuances, eventually linking seamlessly with the vetiver. It feels sleek and smooth, doffing its stylish cap to the classical aromatic scents of the past with their clean, sharp lines. It doesn’t fully fit the mould of a barbershop fougère, though. Instead, leaning more towards a classical chypre with a mossy base. The herbal green notes of vetiver and moss evoke the vegetal tangle of forest floor flora. It’s not damp, but there’s an earthy aspect to Sillage X.
The orris note in the heart accentuates the rooty, earthy facets of Sillage X. It operates in the background, adding polish, elegance, and softness, providing contrast to the more rugged woody aspects. As it develops, Sillage X reminds me of Vetiver Oriental by Serge Lutens, though it lacks the bitter gourmand hit of dark chocolate. But like Vetiver Oriental, there’s a hint of amber that wraps the vetiver note in its appealing, comforting warmth.
Sillage X closes on a classical note, as dry suede-like leather segues into the earthy, green base notes of patchouli, moss, and cedar. By this point, it could be mistaken for a Guerlain or a Chanel. One can’t help but enjoy the ride. I admire how Vasiliki Psatha employs vetiver without smothering the other notes. Everything gets a chance to shine. In Sillage X, the vetiver doesn’t turn grassy or swampy. Instead, it feels distinctly dry, woody, soft, and most importantly, balanced. Overall, Sillage X projects a sense of reliability and stability, akin to a sturdy tree. There are so many aspects to Sillage X that I envision the tree with its many branches extending in various directions.
Nothing really sticks out to me, aside from the vetiver, but as I point out, even that note never holds sway over the composition. Given its lack of a dominant aspect, I’d imagine others might see different results on their skin. For instance, some reviews highlight leather and iris as the standout notes. It doesn’t have a huge sillage or call attention to itself. Perhaps it’s a touch mysterious and self-effacing. Nevertheless, it’s urbane and versatile, and with its disparate elements would suit both men and women. Indeed, an interesting piece of work, and a fitting way for Manos Gerekinis to celebrate 10 years in the industry.
Note: Bottle image from Manos Gerakinis. All other photos are my own. Sample purchased by me.