Back in 2013, Ralf Schwieger composed one of my favorite iris scents, Iris Nazarena, for Aedes de Venustas. Some people interpreted this fragrance, like many iris scents, as cold and gloomy. However, as it unfolded on my skin, it felt so regal, evoking the image of a noble gentleman reclining in his leather armchair in his country manor—something to wear on a special occasion. Fast forward to last year, and Frassaï produced one of my favourite scents from 2024 with their Dormir Al Sol. Seeing the brand and perfumer join forces for a fragrance containing iris had me intrigued to smell the results. I’m so happy Ajedrez is a good one.
Frassaï hails from Argentina, and in Spanish, the game of chess is called ajedrez. Launched as a tribute to Frassaï owner Natalia Outeda’s father and to all chess players past and present, Schwieger’s creative template for the perfume, Ajedrez, was to transport the wearer to a dimly lit 1960s chess room. Right from its first move, Ajedrez has me captivated. Indeed, it brought to mind Iris Nazarena and its “greyish” atmosphere. However, where Schwieger pairs leather with orris in Iris Nazarena, in Ajedrez, he cleverly substitutes a dry tobacco note.
The union of iris and tobacco perfectly stirs up the ambience of a dimly lit chess room. The dry, earthy qualities of the orris materials and the unsweetened tobacco produce a dusty, gritty texture, evoking a tense, anticipatory mood in the process. It’s like stepping into a room that hasn’t been used for a long time. You’re not quite sure what will happen next. Ajedrez kindles my imagination, making me feel as though I’ve been transported into a grainy, vintage black-and-white photo.
As the fragrance develops, colours begin to emerge. For the most part, the shades appear muted, and the low-contrast tones create a grey, beige, and brown, coffee-like colour palette. After an hour or so, it doesn’t feel as grainy or hazy. It’s like Schweiger has taken Ajedrez and run it through an old Kodachrome film. His approach yields results that resemble those found in a vintage photojournalism magazine. Perhaps, he’s channeled his inner Steve McCurry, Ernst Haas, or Fred Herzog. Google their Kodachrome photos and you’ll see what I mean. I’ve tried to convey this aesthetic with the classic chrome filter on my camera in the pictures of the chess pieces.
More of the scene comes into focus as Ajedrez moves between stages and the chess match extends. At first, I sense the wood of the chessboard. Then, there’s a herbal lavender facet, suggestive of the colognes worn by the players. Overall, Ajedrez feels warm, inviting, and classical. While the brand lists cardamom, the warming, nostalgic nature of Ajedrez may hint at notes of cinnamon or nutmeg. Finally, as the game approaches its conclusion, a subtle smoky undertone of moss lingers on the skin.
I think I’ve found a new favourite from the brand. They’ve topped last year’s release, Dormir Al Sol. Just like with Iris Nazarena, Ralf Schwieger paints an evocative image in his inimitable, cerebral style. It’s the dusty aspect that stands out the most. It makes you feel as though you’re in the room with the players. As I wear Ajedrez, the mosses, orris, and tobacco aspects carry me off into a bygone era. It’s a fabulous tribute to Natalia Outeda’s father. When it comes to iris scents, Schwieger’s out there playing chess while the others are playing checkers. Indeed, it’s likely checkmate for my wallet.
What’s your pick of the house? I need to revisit the whole line, I think.
Note Bottle image from the brand. All other photos are my own. Sample paid for by me.
Below are some additional photos that I took to complement the fragrance.
