Francesca Bianchi’s latest creation, The Code of Emotion, veers from her usual stylings. Gone are the powdery orris and sepia-toned animalic leathers. Instead, the focus shifts to an appealing fruity scent built around a fougère framework. Indeed, I had a surprising emotional reaction after spraying The Code of Emotion. I found it positively smile-inducing.
The Code of Emotion drifts so far from her usual approach that I would never have guessed it to be her creation if I had not read the Bianchi name on the decant. That’s not the only peculiarity. Although it’s a fougère and naturally should smell tethered to the past, it doesn’t. The Code of Emotion smells modern, largely thanks to the fruity opening. Indeed, had I not read the notes beforehand, I might not have picked the opening fruity note as mango. It smells like a medley of fruits, comprised of passionfruit, guava, kiwi, etc. But yes, mango remains plausible. Nonetheless, it’s a well-executed accord that’s juicy and pulpy rather than overly sweet.
As the fragrance progresses, the aromatic nuances become more apparent. Hints of lavender and geranium combine to give that patented barbershop aroma. However, it never becomes the defining characteristic. To be sure, The Code of Emotion is fruity first, fougère second.
That’s my main gripe with The Code of Emotion. It’s simply too fruity for my taste. I can’t help but wonder what audience this perfume might attract. Dyed-in-the-wool Bianchi lovers will most likely not enjoy The Code of Emotion. People don’t like change, and overriding emotions of anger and disappointment may follow for those expecting another Under My Skin or Sticky Fingers. Fougère freaks won’t find enough aromatic nuance in The Code of Emotion to scratch the itch. The happiest group may be the lovers of fruity fragrances, but I can’t imagine that collective gravitating towards Bianchi.
I hope I’m wrong and it does well for the brand, finding a new audience for her fragrances. She deliberately set out to do something different with this perfume and succeeded. It’s not easy to take a risk, so kudos to her for attempting something different here. But I’m still left in a bit of a bind. I’ve never found a Bianchi scent I could call my own, and this one doesn’t quite hit the spot, either. That said, I was never anything other than happy while wearing the perfume, which can’t be a bad thing.
Have you tried this new perfume from Francesca Bianchi? What are your thoughts on the brand?
Note: I bought The Code of Emotion sample. All photos are my own, other than the bottle image. (Google)
