I’m finicky and fussy with amber fragrances. Sometimes, or indeed most times, I find them too thick and gooey. In addition, I’m up and down with my admiration for Dominique Ropion’s scents. He’s produced some fragrances I’ve loved and some I despise. So, with Ambre Liquide, we have some potential double trouble – an amber by Ropion. However, it’s the amber part I’m most concerned with here; they have an innate ability to set me back on my heels, leaving me with no room to breathe. Even the great ones like Ambra Aurea by Profumum Roma, Ambre Sultan from Serge Lutens, and Tauer’s L’Air du Desert Marocain seem to give me this suffocating feeling.
Still, I can appreciate these ambers. Just don’t expect to see them on my perfume shelf. I prefer my ambers light and airy. For this reason, I choose Dior’s Ambre Nuit, Eau de Mandarine Ambrée by Hermès, and their deceptively light Ambre Narguile. Some may say this defeats the purpose of an amber. Surely they should be golden, thick, and resinous? And it’s probably true, but I live in a warm climate that’s not conducive to wearing thick, sweet ambers. I’m just never in the mood for the heaviness. Maybe one day I’ll come around and become a fully rounded perfumista with a sizeable amber collection.
So a new amber contender steps up to the plate in the form of Ambre Liquide from one of my favourite recent discoveries, French ceramics house Astier de Villatte. The brand and Ropion took inspiration from pomanders European nobility wore during the Middle Ages. Pomanders were worn like jewels, scented with spices, musk, and amber, used to mask unpleasant odors, and thought to ward off disease. The marketing material worried me with its talk of ancient recipes and intense fragrance formulas. And sure enough, the first spray of Ambre Liquide gave me the heebie-jeebies. It felt like it would be too thick, like many ambers before. But as it warmed up on my skin, it gave me the best of both worlds.
It’s airy enough to wear (for me) and probably dense enough to please the most fastidious of amber wearers. The styrax note defines Ambre Liquide. It generates an intriguing leathery touch and a cinnamon facet, giving new life to the amber accord. The amber doesn’t go in a powdery or overly sweet direction. Instead, it feels more balsamic and spicy. Indeed, the brand leaves out some notes from its pyramid—subtle hints of clove and dried fruit permeate the mix. Myrrh and incense wrap the fragrance in a veil of smoky warmth. I also appreciate the lovely rose water nuance and understated honeyed floral inflection from the Damask rose that comes to the fore in the middle phases.
Ambre Liquide gives me room to breathe. Even with its apparent complexity, its volume remains in check. It smells well-balanced and flows nicely through its layers, never becoming clingy. It earns its title. Many amber scents are pretty straightforward, but not this one. Its numerous dimensions garner and hold my attention. At times, it reminds me of a dusty old school apothecary, replete with medicinal elixirs. At other times, I’m on the outskirts of a rose garden before the spices take hold, evoking festive occasions. And as the smoky notes emerge, I’m taken to church.
Ambre Liquide won’t be a crowd-pleaser. It doesn’t have the vanillic sweetness or the over-the-top opulence many crave in their amber fragrances. In addition, the cloves and leathery touches will limit its appeal. Furthermore, this brand isn’t out on the hustings, campaigning to be seen. As far as I know, they aren’t aboard the influencer marketing train, so Ambre Liquide won’t be making any “Top 10 Winter Fragrances You Should Buy And Wear For The Most Compliments In The Whole World Ever” lists. Nevertheless, I’m once again impressed by this house.
How do you prefer your ambers, dense and sweet, or complete with a lighter touch? If you’ve got any suggestions for lighter amber scents, I’ll happily accept them.
Note: Bottle image courtesy of https://www.astierdevillatte.com/. All other photos are my own. I bought the sample.
Great review! I am curious to try this one! Amber scents can indeed be suffocating, specially during warmer days.
Thanks very much, Tetê. Hopefully you get to sample it sometime!
Ambers are hit or miss for me as well. You might enjoy Ambre Nomade from Élisire. It’s the first “pure” amber I liked and is light and airy.
Thanks for the tip, Nose Prose. I’ll see if I can procure a sample.
Thoroughly enjoyable read, Daniel. Your photos are beautiful as always.
I haven’t had the chance to sample Ambre Liquide. It appears that Lucky Scent carries the brand, but this one is not showing as something available. Maybe it’s just around the corner. Fingers crossed.
I love amber fragrances, but I do like them a bit more weighty. Sweetness I can either take it or leave it. It truly depends on the nose behind the perfume. Amber Absolute by Tom Ford is certain a favorite. Sables by Annick Goutal also comes to mind. How about an amber with a bit of growl, Édition Rare – Ambrarem by Histoires de Parfums. Ambra by Omnia Profumi is such a comforting amber perfume. Finally, Amber Malaki by Chopard. These are probably my favorites.
While I continue to sample many different amber based perfumes, I just haven’t found one that doesn’t have some element of the ones I’ve mentioned. Perhaps Ambre Liquide is the one.
Thanks very much, Flaconneur. I didn’t mind the Tom Ford, but it was the immortelle I struggled with in Sables. For HDP I enjoyed their Ambre 114. Hopefully Luckyscent stocks the Ambre Liquide at some point, and you can sample it. I’m curious to know what you’ll make of it.