Tom Ford – Tuscan Leather – The Archetypal Tom Ford – 9/10.
Happy New Year! Hope you are all having a good start to 2024. My first post of the year is a review of a perfume I haven’t worn for some months. Indeed, it doesn’t work well on my skin in the current summer heat. However, I wanted to start the new year positively and review a perfume I’ve loved since I first tried it almost two decades ago. Recently, I had the misfortune of trying a couple of Tom Ford’s new releases, so I felt the need to exorcise them from my thoughts. Perhaps I’ll go into more detail about them in another post. But today’s review is for one of my favorite leather perfumes of all time and something I’d label quintessentially Tom Ford: Tuscan Leather.
When I think of the Tom Ford brand, a few fragrances spring to mind: Oud Wood and Tobacco Vanille from the Private Blend always rate a mention. As do Grey Vetiver and Black Orchid from the Signature line. But for me, Tuscan Leather incorporates all the qualities that embody the olfactory side of the brand. It’s divisive, rough, gritty, bold, brash and dark. And, unlike some of the contemporary fragrances from the brand, it achieved fame without the hyperbole and provocative marketing (relatively speaking) that’s become the signature of the house.
Tuscan Leather distinguishes itself from the pack right off the bat. The raspberry top note injects a distinct tart, fruity element and an air of gaudy trashiness. Yet it provides a brilliant counterpoint, offsetting the dryness of the saffron and leather combination. A floral/herbal (thyme and jasmine) component lurks underneath the fruity leather. But it’s not nearly as pronounced as the floral facets of Tom Ford’s Ombré Leather collection. Still, both give the perfume a hint of softness, acting as agents to round off the harsher base notes.
Once Tuscan Leather kicks into gear, its unmistakable, bitter, dry, smoky character emerges. The combination of leather, wood, and olibanum turns slightly rough around the edges. The amber accord in the base isn’t sweet or vanillic, but more resinous and balsamic. Raspy, scratchy, and coarse aren’t usually adjectives I use to describe a perfume positively, but they’re appropriate for Tuscan Leather. And despite these seemingly boorish peculiarities, Tuscan Leather retains a distinct level of sophistication. If you’re after a smoother leather, opt for the Ombré Leather variants.
Some leather scents evoke the smell of belts, horse saddles, or new shoes. However, because of the fruity raspberry note’s influence and its dry woody base, Tuscan Leather is hard to pigeonhole. But for mine, the initial burst smells like the leather interior of a vintage car. As it dries down, the burnt birch-like characteristics recall the scent of a well-worn leather jacket, scorched with the ashiness of cigarette smoke. Indeed, if we were to believe Canadian artist Drake, who immortalised Tuscan Leather in rap, it smells like coke (and I don’t mean the drink).
All in all, Tuscan Leather is a relatively simple scent. Despite that, it’s not the most versatile perfume. And certainly, it is not something one would wear daily like Beau de Jour or Neroli Portofino. But it’s very effective, to the point, and in your face, and something I turn to when I want a dark, winter-appropriate leather fragrance.
Alongside Noir de Noir, Oud Wood, and Amber Absolute, it was one of the first scents released for the Private Blend collection – such a strong beginning. After smelling some of the brand’s recent output, I can’t help but lament the decline of the house over the last decade and a half. We still get the odd gem, but quality over quantity isn’t the current strategy at Tom Ford. Fortunately, there were plenty of classics early on, including Tuscan Leather. The hundreds of copycats and wannabes bear testament to the contemporary influence of the scent. Though, none reach the level of this leather tour de force. There can only be one Tuscan Leather!
What’s the archetypal Tom Ford in your book?
Quick Notes:
Launch Year: 2007.
Perfumer(s): Harry Frémont, Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud.
Top Notes: Raspberry, saffron, thyme.
Mid Notes: Olibanum, jasmine.
Base Notes: Leather, suede, woody notes, amber.
Longevity: 10-12 hours. Current reformulations are watered down with poorer longevity.
Projection: 4 hours, strong.
Seasons: Winter, Autumn.
Price: 30ml, $260AUD. 50ml, $410AUD. 100ml, $565AUD. 250ml, $1050.00AUD.
Alternatives: Byredo Black Saffron, Parfums de Marly Godolphin, Acqua di Parma Colonia Leather, and Tom Ford Ombre Leather works as a smoother, cheaper alternative.
All images are my own.
Tuscan Leather is fantastic, and it has been copied so many times. Indeed , the latest vanilla by TF is disappointing. For me, it smells like cheap vanilla/ marzipan candles or room sprays we find at supermarkets… in the end. Great post and images!
Thank you very much, Tetê! Yes, Tuscan Leather’s impact cannot be underestimated. As for the new release, I agree with your assessment. It smells mono-dimensional and very cheap.
Great review! Tuscan Leather is definitely in my top ten, Daniel. I acquired my bottle just after its release. It still smells amazing, which speaks to the level of quality of the materials. You need to add one other fragrance to the list of copycats of Tuscan Leather. In 2010, Clive Christian released C for Men. Very similar with subtle differences. I can only imagine that Tuscan Leather was the inspiration. You’re right, many of the latest from Tom Ford are just uninspiring. Somehow I feel like the glory days for the brand are behind us.
Thanks, Flaconneur. Good to know you enjoy Tuscan Leather too. Yes, there are so many copycats it’s hard to keep up. There’s a couple from the brand Jusbox (Nightflow and Black Powder) that come to mind too. Yes, seems the glory days are in the past.
I own a few of TF decants (Santal Blush, Purple Patchouli & Jasmin Rouge) & a bottle of the now unicorn, Plum Japonais. I had a biggish sample of Velvet Gardenia but that is long gone.
Tuscan Leather needed some saddle soap to wear it in for me. It needed to be more supple to please my nose.
You’re right about earlier TF being top notch & the current playground forced smutty names aren’t big & aren’t clever. Merely a sad marketing ploy from some precocious 6 year old boy thinking swearing is an achievement.
Santal Blush and Plum Japonais are another couple of favourites. Yes, the new cringey names are appealing to the lowest common denominator. Sad times at the brand.
This is one that I really liked when I first tried it a couple of years ago, talked myself out of because it was so expensive, and bought a bottle of a few months ago at a discount with points from work because I couldn’t forget it. Definitely a classic and a keeper. I also have a travel spray of Ombre Leather Parfum, but in my mind I associate it with travel for that reason, so I can’t really compare the two objectively.
Ah that’s good you were eventually able to pick it up. The Ombre Leathers are fantastic too, softer and smoother. Tom Ford seems to excel with these leathery scents.
Certainly TF at its best, without the silly gimmicks. You’ve captured it brilliantly, dear Daniel, through your writing and pics. What a great way to start the year!
Thank you, Rich. Yes, the childish school yard names and marketing gimmicks have become tiresome.