I only have a little to say or write regarding this quartet of perfumes, so I’ll bundle my thoughts together in this post. At the outset, I’m glad these companies are making this stuff as it makes it so easy not to buy anything. Three out of the four are very ordinary. My thoughts are below.
BDK – Pas ce Soir Extrait – This perfume was far too sweet; I had to wash it off. Has that happened to you lately? Indeed, it occurs more frequently these days. And this overly-priced lolly water from BDK just had to go. It mixes sticky, sweet, cloying fruit and imitation flowers, layering them over abrasive woods and shampoo musk. But, it’s the toothachingly sweet fruits that kill everything.
In the sweetness department, I have it right up there with La Vie Est Belle from Lancome. Certainly, it reminds me of that scent; in actuality, the Lancome’s got nothing on this extrait. Of course, It lingers on the skin and in the air forever. The green bottle misses the mark as the quince, peaches, pears, and florals make me think of neon yellow and pink colours.
Parfums de Marly – Althaïr – Parfums de Marketing (oops, slip of the keyboard), that should read Parfums de Marly is back with a new perfume. However, Althaïr feels a little insubstantive/underpowered. The vanilla here is similar to Nishane’s Ani – soft and unobtrusive. This relative restraint is quite a revelation for this brand, known for its shouty scents. True to form, though, the woods in the base are scratchy. I liken it to Silky Woods from Goldfield and Banks. It’s a tried and true formula for the house. And for that reason, disciples of Herod (I don’t mind this one) and Layton will find this to their liking. But I do not like these “mass appealing style” perfumes where the sweet notes (vanilla and praline) recede into a woody amber base. This lack of nuance is more akin to fast food than fine dining.
It’s less obnoxious than most of their offerings, but many things irk me about Althaïr, and it’s not necessarily the listless perfume. Firstly, the horrible brown bottle (is it meant to evoke the colour of terracotta or praline?), and secondly and worst of all, it has a million reviews on YouTube, spruiking its awesomeness. Does Oprah work for PDM, delving out free bottles? It’s a marketing approach that must pay off for the brand. However, it makes me want to avoid their offerings. Why should I buy something when hundreds of others receive a freebie?
Nonetheless, I could overlook both my aggravations (especially my cosmetic concerns with the bottle) if the perfume was good. However, it’s just okay and nothing overly special. Whatever, the brand couldn’t give a flying fruitcake what I think, as they’re probably laughing all the way to the bank.
Miller Harris – Myrica Muse – The red bottle hints at what one might expect from Myrica Muse. Overly jammy fruits of strawberry link with roses and a musky vanilla patchouli base, sending the sweetness levels to a dangerously high level. Again, it’s nothing we haven’t seen before, particularly in the designer world. And although it’s not quite like smudging sweet, sticky strawberry jam all over, it’s not far off. Indeed, it’s not a million miles away from another sweet one from Miller Harris, Scherzo. Try Myrica Muse if you like that one.
Robert Piguet – Zazen – You have to sort through a lot of trash to get to the good stuff nowadays. Zazen, Piguet’s latest, is pretty good. And it follows a familiar template for 2022/2023 perfumes. The brand melds rice and nutty notes into a quirky offering recalling other big-name releases from Hermes and Diptyque.
Indeed, it’s a curious scent that leans in a savoury gourmand direction. Some aspects remind me of L’Eau Papier from Diptyque. However, instead of the solo facet of steamed rice, it smells like the rice sits on the plate alongside a fruity component of green crisp apple. Powdery and leathery aspects of violet and saffron ground the scent before the tonka in the base brings out a nutty almond facet to close. Zazen receives a thumbs up from me, but the push and pull of the disparate elements may be off-putting for some.
Have you tried any of these new fragrances?
Note: All images are my own, and all samples were purchased by me.
Not tried any of them & as I’m trying not to create yearnings for anything new I’m unlikely to
Certainly a good idea! And you’re not missing too much to be honest.
Oh dear. Statistically, this does not bode well for the perfume world! What an apt Freudian slip for your keyboard. I haven’t tried any of these, but am wary of many new extraits that can be too sticky and strong.
Yes, BDK and PDM seem to be producing some of the sweetest stickiest stuff going around. Lots of people seem to love it though.
Tks for the overview! Many I haven’t tried yet, but I guess i don’t need to!
Thanks for reading and commenting, Tetê! Indeed, maybe only Zazen is worth a try here.