Now and again, I need to do a factory reset on my nose. It's usually after I've been exposed to too many woody amber scents with their spiky, uninviting drydowns, like last week's Ormonde Jayne – Vetiveria – From Fizz To Flat. Maybe I should call it an olfactory palate cleansing. I typically accomplish this … Continue reading Isabelle Larignon – Mandi Rhubi – Rhubarb Cologne
Category: First Impressions
New fragrance impressions
Ormonde Jayne – Vetiveria – From Fizz To Flat
I'm like an overly excited Price Is Right contestant when a new vetiver hits the market. Indeed, the announcement of the new Vetiveria from Ormonde Jayne had me enthused, energetic, and ready to come on down! But rather than walking away feeling like a showcase winner, it feels like I've bowed out early and come … Continue reading Ormonde Jayne – Vetiveria – From Fizz To Flat
Where’s Wally? – Le Labo City Exclusives – Osmanthus 19 & Coriandre 39
Osmanthus 19 Stop the presses! Stop the presses! Le Labo returns with another City Exclusive, and now that it's September, everyone with access to a Le Labo store can sample it. However, good luck finding the hero ingredient in this latest offering. I couldn't help but chuckle as I sprayed the Kyoto-inspired Osmanthus 19 in-store … Continue reading Where’s Wally? – Le Labo City Exclusives – Osmanthus 19 & Coriandre 39
Bienaimé – Monsieur – Yes Sir, A Good One
Bienaimé is another of the many French houses that have been revived in recent times. Robert Bienaimé founded his eponymous house back in the mid-1930s. A chemist by profession, he started his perfume career at Houbigant, creating several renowned fragrances, including Quelques Fleurs for the brand, before eventually branching out on his own. Parfum de … Continue reading Bienaimé – Monsieur – Yes Sir, A Good One
Perfumer H – Steam – Fog And Fume And Herbal Haze
I'm familiar with Lyn Harris and her work with Miller Harris and Claus Porto. Her style is characterised by calm, nature-focused scents that are delivered with restraint. This approach won't win her many admirers among those who prioritise performance/sillage above all else; perfumed peacocks need not apply. None of her compositions ever shouts. I haven't … Continue reading Perfumer H – Steam – Fog And Fume And Herbal Haze
Akro – Breathe – Natural Born Filler
Nature and the great outdoors served as the inspiration for Breathe from Akro. However, I'm convinced the inspiration for the scent came from men's designer aquatic scents, such as Versace Man Eau Fraiche or Chanel Allure Sport, and to a lesser extent, the Light Blue's from D&G. Breathe resembles the light, faux fougère marine scents … Continue reading Akro – Breathe – Natural Born Filler
Narciso Rodriguez – Narciso Eau de Parfum Radiante – More Musk
I may seem somewhat contradictory in praising Narciso Rodriguez's Narciso Eau de Parfum Radiante after deriding Creed's Eladaria. They share some similar floaty, gossamer characteristics, so let me explain. Indeed, Narciso leaves themselves open for criticism. The brand's musky shtick has been played out repeatedly. It's hard to differentiate one release from another, especially on … Continue reading Narciso Rodriguez – Narciso Eau de Parfum Radiante – More Musk
First Impressions – Creed – Eladaria – Everlasting Mineral Rose
I don't talk about Creed much on my blog. The hype around the house has seemingly dimmed over the years. I wonder if Gabe Oppenheim's exposé on the brand has had any impact. There's no doubt a million other brands would love to have an Aventus on their books, though. Their men's line still attracts … Continue reading First Impressions – Creed – Eladaria – Everlasting Mineral Rose
Maison Francis Kurkdjian – Kurky – The Curious Case Of Kurkdjian
It's a holiday Wednesday here, and I wanted to look at one of the more high-profile releases of 2025 so far, Kurky by Francis Kurkdjian. Even the most passionate supporters of Kurkdjian might find it difficult to praise some of his recent work. Perhaps, through gritted teeth. It's been one uninspiring release after another since … Continue reading Maison Francis Kurkdjian – Kurky – The Curious Case Of Kurkdjian
Carthusia – Intenso Collection – Basilico, Ginestra and Mirto
On paper, Carthuisa's latest trio, paying homage to three plants that form a vital part of the Mediterranean landscape, seemed a winner. But you don't play the game on paper; you play it on skin. And on skin Mirto, Basilico, and Ginestra didn't come to play. Antoine Lie and Luca Maffei combined to bring the … Continue reading Carthusia – Intenso Collection – Basilico, Ginestra and Mirto