Bienaimé is another of the many French houses that have been revived in recent times. Robert Bienaimé founded his eponymous house back in the mid-1930s. A chemist by profession, he started his perfume career at Houbigant, creating several renowned fragrances, including Quelques Fleurs for the brand, before eventually branching out on his own. Parfum de … Continue reading Bienaimé – Monsieur – Yes Sir, A Good One
Author: danielwp
Perfumer H – Steam – Fog And Fume And Herbal Haze
I'm familiar with Lyn Harris and her work with Miller Harris and Claus Porto. Her style is characterised by calm, nature-focused scents that are delivered with restraint. This approach won't win her many admirers among those who prioritise performance/sillage above all else; perfumed peacocks need not apply. None of her compositions ever shouts. I haven't … Continue reading Perfumer H – Steam – Fog And Fume And Herbal Haze
Review – Serge Lutens – Santal Majuscule – The Best Sandalwood From Serge?
Review - Serge Lutens - Santal Majuscule - Festive Woods - 9/10. Serge Lutens has three perfumes dedicated to sandalwood. They are Santal Blanc, a featherlight skin scent that combines musk and iris, the curried spice of Santal de Mysore, and my favourite, Santal Majuscule. They're all sufficiently different from each other that you could … Continue reading Review – Serge Lutens – Santal Majuscule – The Best Sandalwood From Serge?
Akro – Breathe – Natural Born Filler
Nature and the great outdoors served as the inspiration for Breathe from Akro. However, I'm convinced the inspiration for the scent came from men's designer aquatic scents, such as Versace Man Eau Fraiche or Chanel Allure Sport, and to a lesser extent, the Light Blue's from D&G. Breathe resembles the light, faux fougère marine scents … Continue reading Akro – Breathe – Natural Born Filler
Narciso Rodriguez – Narciso Eau de Parfum Radiante – More Musk
I may seem somewhat contradictory in praising Narciso Rodriguez's Narciso Eau de Parfum Radiante after deriding Creed's Eladaria. They share some similar floaty, gossamer characteristics, so let me explain. Indeed, Narciso leaves themselves open for criticism. The brand's musky shtick has been played out repeatedly. It's hard to differentiate one release from another, especially on … Continue reading Narciso Rodriguez – Narciso Eau de Parfum Radiante – More Musk
First Impressions – Creed – Eladaria – Everlasting Mineral Rose
I don't talk about Creed much on my blog. The hype around the house has seemingly dimmed over the years. I wonder if Gabe Oppenheim's exposé on the brand has had any impact. There's no doubt a million other brands would love to have an Aventus on their books, though. Their men's line still attracts … Continue reading First Impressions – Creed – Eladaria – Everlasting Mineral Rose
Maison Francis Kurkdjian – Kurky – The Curious Case Of Kurkdjian
It's a holiday Wednesday here, and I wanted to look at one of the more high-profile releases of 2025 so far, Kurky by Francis Kurkdjian. Even the most passionate supporters of Kurkdjian might find it difficult to praise some of his recent work. Perhaps, through gritted teeth. It's been one uninspiring release after another since … Continue reading Maison Francis Kurkdjian – Kurky – The Curious Case Of Kurkdjian
Carthusia – Intenso Collection – Basilico, Ginestra and Mirto
On paper, Carthuisa's latest trio, paying homage to three plants that form a vital part of the Mediterranean landscape, seemed a winner. But you don't play the game on paper; you play it on skin. And on skin Mirto, Basilico, and Ginestra didn't come to play. Antoine Lie and Luca Maffei combined to bring the … Continue reading Carthusia – Intenso Collection – Basilico, Ginestra and Mirto
Serge Lutens – Point Du Jour – Morning Has Broken
For a house built on its heavy, ambery, syrupy scents, Serge Lutens has produced its fair share of good, lighter fragrances. I've always been intrigued by L'Eau Froide, the brand's icy reprise to Cool Water. Despite its name, though, L'Eau Froide wasn't so much a Cool Water retort, but more of a return to basics … Continue reading Serge Lutens – Point Du Jour – Morning Has Broken
Clue Perfumery – Dandelion Butter – Sappy Green
I'd read a lot of positive feedback about Clue Perfumery, a new niche house from the US, based in Chicago. Flaconneur had posted on the brand last year on his blog https://perfumuschicago.wordpress.com/2024/08/17/get-a-clue/, and it had piqued my interest. As my sister was returning to Australia from New York in July, I thought it might be … Continue reading Clue Perfumery – Dandelion Butter – Sappy Green