First Impressions – Guerlain – Habit Rouge – Rouge Privé & L’Homme Idéal – Platine Privé

Flankers are the name of the game in today’s perfume world. Too often, though, they’re not up to snuff, falling way short of the quality of the original fragrance. However, bucking the trend (as they often do), Guerlain delivers the goods with two new flankers for their men’s line. Both are good, but there is one star.

Lets’s begin with the good one before I move on to the star. There isn’t a lot to say about L’Homme Idéal – Platine Privé. Indeed, it’s similar to the now-discontinued L’Homme Ideal Cologne. You won’t need it if you own that one. From the opening spray, L’Homme Ideal Cologne’s distinct creamy almond/citrus structure emerges on skin. Perhaps the new flanker favours the citrus notes a little more than the nutty aspects of the cologne, but the differences are minor. Still, it’s good to know there’s a viable replacement for the popular 2015 release in Platine Privé. 

The real star, though, is Habit Rouge – Rouge Privé.

This fabulous flanker remains faithful to the original, but the talented German perfumer, Delphine Jelk, breathes new life into the old dog. In the process, it might bring an old classic to the attention of a new generation of noses.

There are several differences between Rouge Privé and Habit Rouge. Initially, the top of the fragrance receives a facelift. It smells decidedly more modern. Ginger and bergamot inject a warm spicy touch. There’s less of the piercing lemon of the original. And the citruses smell less of powdered sherbet. The ginger, in particular, gives this new flanker a distinct point of difference from Habit Rouge.

The floral component comprises iris and orange blossoms. Both bring a powdery fresh quality to the middle stages, but it may be here where the main differences between this scent and the original become more apparent. Gone is the multifaceted floral woody bouquet of roses, carnations, and sandalwood. And this more streamlined approach delivers this new scent a more airy feel, giving the perfume more room to breathe.

The leather accord remains, and here it’s beautifully composed. Jelk fashions out a smooth tanned leather arrangement but still with a slightly medicinal band-aid quality. The leather mixes seamlessly with powdery iris, vanilla, and patchouli. Though, out of all the notes, the leather is most discernable on my skin. The vanilla in the base notes plays more of a supporting role in Rouge Privé. Certainly, I can still detect it, but the emphasis shifts more onto the patchouli as the dry down unfolds.

Overall, the original Habit Rouge in EdT form remains my pick and one of my favourite perfumes of all time. This new flanker is less nuanced and complex but is a fine piece of perfumery. Delphine Jelk and Guerlain successfully revamp the original without resorting to modern-day perfume clichés. There’s no overdose of woody ambers to extend longevity or an overreliance on mass-appealing sugary notes or shampoo-like musks. Seek it out at your earliest opportunity, especially if you enjoy the original. Although, I hope Guerlain makes it more widely available, as it’s currently a limited edition.

Have you sampled these two scents?

Note: Habit Rouge and L’Homme Ideal Cologne images are my own. Bottle images of Platine Privé and Rouge Privé are from Fragrantica. And the fragrances were tested from decants I purchased.