Hermès – Un Jardin sur le Toit – Spring garden on the roof of Hermès headquarters. 8/10.
I’ve reviewed Un Jardin sur le Toit before on my blog. But I felt it could use a bit of a reexamination for several reasons:
- I’ve been wearing it quite a bit lately.
- The Hermès garden now has a new member, the seemingly divisive Un Jardin à Cythère—more on that one and the others after the sur le Toit review.
- 2023 is a milestone year for the series as it’s now 20 years since the first release from the line, Un Jardin en Méditerranée.
Un Jardin sur le Toit translates to a garden on the roof, and the fragrance refers specifically to the rooftop garden at the Hermès headquarters in Paris. Indeed, Jean-Claude Ellena is at his inimitable best on this release. However, despite the inspiration, I never feel I’m in an urban environment while wearing Un Jardin sur le Toit. Instead, Jean-Claude Ellena takes us on a relaxing tour of the idyllic French countryside.
Straight out of the can, green grass (recently mown) intermingles with pear and apple, creating a crisp freshness. The pome fruits are tart, and the clever introduction of a wet soil accord fashions an even more realistic sensation of walking through a fruit orchard in Normandy in late summer. The fragrance remains bright throughout. Sheer rose and magnolia eventually join forces. This floral intervention further enhances the notion that this garden is an aromatic, welcoming environment to relax and watch the day go by. Like most Ellena compositions, it is light and easy to wear. It is my favourite in the Jardin series. Expect to spend about 5-6 hours enjoying this garden before it fades, and it’s time to head back to the hustle and bustle of city life.
And now, some quick thoughts on Nagel’s second perfume for the line, Un Jardin à Cythère. Seemingly it’s a divisive one, but I enjoyed it. Nagel takes us to a Greek Island for this odd dry affair. It doesn’t smell like any garden I’ve ever experienced. However, I’ve never been to Greece.
It all starts relatively straightforwardly, with the usual citric opening. But, then, the oddness surfaces. A semi-gourmand facet emerges by way of olive trees and pistachio nuts. It almost smells like a nutty lemon cake or crumbly biscuit devoid of cream or sweetness. It can’t be classified as a full-on gourmand because a dry grassy, woody aspect begins to dominate as it evolves. For me, all notions of food go out the door after about 30 minutes. Something weird and rubbery, perhaps the olive tree, made me think of Fat Electrician, and the nutty aspect recalled Diptyque’s new L’Eau Papier and Sarah Jessica Parker’s Stash. Though, it’s far from as heavy or resinous as Stash. But like that one, this offbeat and quirky release will not please everyone’s palates.
Where would this new release sit amongst my favourites from the line? Certainly, not at the bottom. Here are my power rankings for this series:
- Un Jardin sur le Toit.
- Un Jardin sur le Nil.
- Un Jardin après la Mousson.
- Un Jardin en Méditerranée.
- Un Jardin à Cythère.
- Un Jardin sur la Lagune.
- Le Jardin de Monsieur Li.
Even though Un Jardin sur le Toit is my favourite, I think Un Jardin sur le Nil and Un Jardin après la Mousson are the most original and probably technically the better perfumes. Nonetheless, if you’re a fan of fresh scents, this series should have something for everyone. I wonder where they’ll take us next.
What are your favourites from the line? Have you tried the new one?
Note: All images are my own.
Beautiful captures and very detailed reviews. I am curious about “ Un Jardin à Cythère” after readinf your description!
Thanks very much, Tetê. Yes, I think it is an interesting release for sure. I’d be interested to hear your thoughts on it, because as I say it’s a divisive one.
I don’t have any of the Jardin series but have tried most. I found the ones I tried to be to too wishy washy for my taste. I find many of Ellena’s lightweight & gauzy creations to be the “Emperor’s New Clothes” of perfumery.
I wonder if the “rubbery” note you get from Cythere is mastica? A tree resin used in Greek & Cypriot cuisine
I got the same feeling from the few I tried (I think le Nil and Monsieur Li); not Lagune, which I found harsh somehow. Would be interested to smell the nutty aspect of Cythère.
Mastic would make sense – I find the note also a bit chalky.
I’m interested to see what you think of it. Yes, Lagune wasn’t great. This new one is a much more interesting offering from Nagel. And yes, I find mastic to have a chalky aspect too.
It could well be. Even though it’s not listed in the note breakdown, as we know that isn’t the be all and end all. There are lots of woody resins in the base of this new Hermes for sure, as there is in ELDO’s Fat Electrician.
I know I have sampled some of these but I need to get my nose on them again. Too many releases it’s hard to keep up but they do all sound lovely.
The new releases come thick and fast for sure. Hopefully you get to sample them sometime soon, Brigitte.
I’ve tried the new one and love it. Big fan of this range for its sophistication and surprising interpretations of the theme. Big love for your super shots and review, dear Daniel.
Thanks very much, Rich. Yes, the new one is Christine Nagel’s best one yet for this range.