Best Perfumes of 2022

Another year in the books, and 2022 was a year where for most of us, myself included, it was time to break away from the shackles of COVID restrictions. And with that came the ability to get into stores more readily to sample perfumes. Of course, it’s never possible to test everything, but I’ve narrowed this list down to my favourite thirteen fragrances, including one from 2021 that I only got to try in 2022.

For me, it was a year of rose and fougère perfumes. I’ve got two of each on my best-of list. A few surprises from brands that hadn’t impressed me in the past may crop up too. Anyway, without further ado, my top perfumes are listed below in alphabetical order by brand name.

Arquiste – Indigo Smoke – I sampled this late in the year, but it made a strong, instantly positive impression. Calice Becker’s evocation of Lapsang Souchong black tea is suitably smoky with hints of apricot. The smouldering smoky woods in the base added to the mystery. An excellent addition to an already strong line of perfumes from Arquiste.

Chanel – Paris – Paris – The first rose on my list is Olivier Polge’s pink portrait of Paris. Fizzy pepper and citruses at the top made for a refreshing opening. The elegant vibrant rose and clean patchouli combination that follows is akin to a walk through La Coulée verte René-Dumont on a languid Sunday afternoon. 

Eris Parfums – Scorpio Rising – Another perfume I came across towards the end of the year is one of the best from Antoine Lie and Eris Parfums. Scorpio Rising’s opening salvo of fiery cinnamon, pepper, and cardamom spice laid the groundwork for a suitably dark base of woods, incense, and leather.

Floris – No.007 – Ian Fleming, the author of the James Bond novels, was a devoted fan of this British house. Indeed, Floris is mentioned numerous times in his books. His personal favourite was the aromatic No.89. 

So in 2022, to commemorate 60 years of the Bond film franchise, Floris made a fragrance dedicated to 007 himself. It’s an oh-so-suave, slightly aromatic, boozy mix of geranium and smoky juniper hinting at Bond’s love of gin. The floral middle phase consists of rose, lavender, and rosemary, alluding to Bond’s softer side.

An ambery base fused with spicy carnation and vanillic spices suggests bay rum before the final woody, mossy flourish closes the scent out on a smooth, charming note. No rough edges here, and certainly one to check out if you’re a fan of the house and/or a James Bond devotee. Effortlessly debonair. 

Fort & Manle – Late Harvest – The Australian house rejigged their whole line this year, discontinuing many while updating their bottles. Coming into the fold were three new perfumes. Honiara (marine fruity) and All the Queen’s Men (sweet/boozy/dried fruits) were okay, but not to my taste. However, I thoroughly enjoyed Late Harvest despite the perceived familiarity of the cherry/tobacco blend.

To be sure, the combination of tobacco, cherry, and vanilla is a predictable alliance. But, it’s skilfully blended with rose, cedar, and rosewood, combining to take the edge of the sweetness. There’s a darkness and an autumnal feel to proceedings with Late Harvest, and I pick up something a touch earthy as the fragrance develops. Inspired by the scent of Grandad’s old leather tobacco pouch, the leather accord adds a rugged edge to Late Harvest as it develops.

Guerlain – Nerolia Vetiver – Philosykos meets Neroli Portofino meets the crystalline goodness of Aqua Allegoria. The addition of grassy vetiver and herbal basil made this new Guerlain a no-brainer for the warmer weather.

Hiram Green – Arcadia – Arcadia is the first of my fougère favourites from 2022. The opening was rough-hewn. However, the perfume settles. The opening burst of pungent lavender softened by creamy tonka and woods. Jasmine and rose injected a fresh touch. And patchouli’s earthy dampness was noticeable under a haze of resins and spices—the combination of notes made for a more complex wear than the usual garden-variety fougère.

Maison Crivelli – Patchouli Magnetik – This brand gives me too cool for school hipster vibes, much like Nasomatto or Le Labo. And I have only enjoyed a few from this house previously. But, credit where credit is due, as Quentin Bisch comes up with something unique in this composition. Wet, earthy patchouli blended with creamy, milky undertones of gardenia, peach, and sandalwood, giving the fragrance an almost humid, balmy tropical vibe. It’s such a strong one that half a spray is nearly enough to fill a room. Tough to wear, but I guarantee you won’t smell like anyone else if you do. 

Masque Milano – Sleight of Fern – This new release from Masque is the only perfume on my list, of which I own a full bottle. It’s got to be a good one, then? Indeed. And with Stephanie Backouche’s previous history with fougère’s  (Invasion Barbare), it was bound to be a success.

All the requisite fougère notes feature – bergamot, lavender, geranium, tonka, and mosses. Sleight of Fern’s herbal, aromatic, and somewhat medicinal opening of lavender and thyme immediately transported me to a high-end barbershop. However, as usual, Masque Milano didn’t go down the obvious route. Instead, atypical counterpoints such as pine-like mastic and a sappy fig accord made proceedings more interesting.

The middle florals, much like Arcadia, soften the composition. Minty green geranium pokes through, partnering up with narcissus and tuberose. Even though neither is the leading player, both add subtle nuances. The tuberose is camphorous without baring its claws too viciously. Concurrently, the narcissus delivers a slight hint of tobacco. An advancing animalism creeps in by the dry down as the leathery, smoky, mossy base takes shape.

Naomi Goodsir – Corpus Equus – I was late to the party with this fabulous 2021 leather scent from Naomi Goodsir. Better late than never, though, as Bertrand Duchaufour’s artistic interpretation of a fiery and untamed horse was a beauty. The leather is smoky and ashy and incorporates everything from the animalic scent of the horse’s mane and well-worn leather saddle to the woody framework of the horse stable. Hints of rose and sweetness from the ambery base provided the much-needed contrast. 

Narciso Rodriguez – Musc Noir Rose For Her – The second rose on my list and my favourite women’s marketed scent for the year comes from Narciso Rodriguez. It never becomes too cloying despite including tuberose, vanilla, plum, and musk notes. The rose maintains a good balance between fresh and Turkish delight gourmand sweetness—creamy, fruity, musky goodness from a brand that rarely missteps.

Parfum d’Empire – Vetiver Bourbon – When speaking of brands that rarely set a foot wrong, Parfum d’Empire must make the list. Nary a bad release in their portfolio. So, when the brand announced they were releasing a scent with one of my favourite notes of vetiver, I knew I’d love it. 

Opening with a bitter anisic green blast of angelica, rooty and earthy, it sets the scene for the wave of vetiver to follow. Marc-Antoine Corticchiato uses both Haitian and Bourbon vetiver varieties. It results in a multi-faceted rich composition—smoky, mossy, and green, but mostly fresh, woody, and easy to wear. The undeniable quality of the ingredients makes this vetiver stand out in a crowded market. Vetiver Bourbon is a linear composition, but the interplay between the spicy clove and soft earthy iris adds great interest. Very well done, indeed.

Santa Maria Novella – L’Iris – Last but certainly not least is this landmark release from Santa Maria Novella. Notable, as it’s the brand’s first EDP in its range. The eye candy for your perfume cabinet bottle is arguably the most beguiling of 2022—the elegant scent contained within measures up to the quality expected from the venerable Florentine apothecary. 

The iris is graceful, refined, and timeless, like a freshly laundered white shirt. A buttery, creamy aspect to the musk and iris partnership reminds me of the finest lotion. Nothing feels out of place with L’Iris, the subtle accents of galbanum, geranium, and magnolia adding a springtime freshness to this charming perfume.

So there we have it, my best for the year. What were your picks? This will likely be my last post for the year, so thank you for all your comments, patronage, and support throughout 2022. I wish you all a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

Note: Bottle images from Fragrantica, except for Sleight of Fern. All other images are my own.