First Impressions – New Rose Scents – Heeley & L’Artisan

L’Artisan Parfumeur – Mémoire de Roses – Rose scents are in vogue. But did they ever go out of style? In my first impressions post today, I give my thoughts on two new rose scents that I recently sampled. 

Firstly L’Artisan Parfumeur and their modern take on rose, Mémoire de Roses. L’Artisan is a brand that has brought us quite a few rose scents. Voleur de Roses (gothic), Arcana Rose (thorny garden rose), and Le Chant de Camargue (roses in the rice fields), amongst others. Undoubtedly, this new addition is the most stripped-down rose in their portfolio.

I think L’Artisan has returned to some form with Mémoire de Roses. It opens with a sparkling cocktail of citruses (mandarin and bergamot) that reminds me a little of MFK l’Homme À la rose. However, that had grapefruit. The citruses here feel juicier. Although, like the MFK, there are some woody/ amber/synthetic sandalwoods in the base. However, unlike the MFK, they are not overdone here, and the rose remains fresh and dewy. The musks are light and never overbearing. The mandarin dominates.

I like it much more than the MFK. It’s relatively pricey, though, for what it is. And, surprisingly, it lasted quite a long time for a freshie. I enjoyed over 8 hours each time I wore it. Christophe Raynaud is the perfumer.

Heeley Paris – Rose Aria – I love the name. And this one does sing to me. The opening is a dewy garden rose with the sweetness of a Granny Smith apple. The green apple provides a crispness, and the Centifolia rose here has an almost honeyed aroma. Then, a very earthy galbanum note joins in. However, it isn’t long before the other contrasting notes filter through.

A curious dry, leathery saffron and slightly resinous woody note act as an interesting counterpoint to the freshness. And thank goodness, but there’s no patchouli. Instead, musks and sweet ambers hold the base together. Rose aria has quite a heavy musk finish.

I’m not sure it works entirely well in the summer months. It would be interesting to try this in the winter. I’d have to revisit Musc Noble from Guerlain, but I recall some similarities with the musky base of Rose Aria. Rose Aria held on for 6-8 hours before fading to a skin scent. Intriguing work.

Have you tried these rose scents? Do you have a favourite from either brand?

Note: The bottle images are from Google. The pictures of the roses are mine. I purchased my own samples.