Diptyque – Orpheon – The inspiration behind Diptyque’s latest is a bar in the Saint Germain Quarter of Paris in the ’60s. The only resemblance to a bar I pick up is the burst of juniper in the opening, which hints at gin and tonics and other libations. Though it’s not listed as a note, the notes’ combined effects are meant to convey tobacco. I don’t detect any hint of tobacco. Orpheon is a combination of resinous woods, soapy florals, and aromatic nuances. If anything, it veers close to the musky floral Fleur de Peau. Take out the iris from Fleur de Peau and replace it with some green touches, and you’ll be pretty close to what Orpheon has to offer. I enjoy the scent, but if you already own Fleur de Peau, this might be redundant. It intrigues me enough to give it another few samples.
Narciso Rodriguez – Musc Noir for Her – One can always rely on Narciso Rodriguez to deliver the goods. Musc Noir takes the brand’s signature musks, infuses them with a fruity touch of plum, and anchors it on a smooth, suede base. Heliotrope adds an almond-like sweetness. I’m not sure the “Noir” moniker befits the well-behaved, polished contents contained within, though.
Byredo – Mixed Emotions – Much improved upon their last release but still falls short. Like most Byredo scents, it is top-loaded, as if all the money for the formula is funneled into the opening. The scent smells like peach tea and not much else. Dear Polly by Vilhelm Parfumerie or even Wulong Cha from Nishane, its close cousins. The base is thinner than those, though. Difficult to recommend.
Have you tried these new releases? What did you make of them?
Note – Bottle images courtesy of Google. All perfumes sampled in store.
I agree with you about Orpheon, but I dislike Mixed Emotions very much. Another overhyped Byredo that smells ordinary 🙈 Narciso’s new one, I still need to try!
Thanks for reading and writing, Tetê. Yes, most Byredo’s tend to fall flat. Let me know when you try the Narciso. 😀