First Impressions – Perris Monte Carlo

Perris Monte Carlo – Vanille de Tahiti – First things first, there’s been a couple of attempts at summer vanilla’s in recent times. The marine-focused Vanilla Vibes from JHAG and L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Couleur Vanille left me rather salty. I can unequivocally state that Vanille de Tahiti is the best of the three.

As the moniker suggests, the vanilla used in this scent is derived from Tahitian vanilla. Tahitian vanilla is lighter, more tropical and floral than the prevalently used vanilla from Madagascar. Unlike the Reunion variety vanilla, Tahitian vanilla doesn’t require extensive curing of the vanilla pod to obtain vanillin. Instead, it stays on the pod one month longer and naturally develops vanillin without curing, so it just requires alternating exposure to shade and sunlight before being ready. Firmenich extract this vanilla, without solvents, in a process called Supercritical CO2 Extraction that preserves the natural profile of the raw material. Therefore, what we are getting here is a very high-quality extract of vanilla.

So how does it smell? Well, the heady yellow florals of ylang-ylang and champaca make for a rather challenging beginning. It’s a bitter, slightly animalic opening to my nose, that fortunately doesn’t last long before the light, buttery, creamy vanilla comes into play. Mercifully it’s not a cupcake sweet gourmand vanilla. The vanilla here is soft, cosy, with a slight hint of caramel and marshmallow. The light tropical nature of the scent makes it a perfect companion for warm weather days. Warming notes of musk and amber in the dry down closes things out on a cosy note. It’s not a monster projector, but I experience 8-10 hours of longevity. I’m not the biggest fan of vanilla scents, but I have enjoyed wearing this one.

Some quick thoughts on the two new Jean Claude Ellena compositions for the house.

Perris Monte Carlo – Lavande Romaine – Fantastic interplay between the thick herbal lavender and the freshness of the black currant leaf. A typically pared-back minimalist offering from Jean-Claude Ellena that uses cedar and musk in the base to support the two main notes. Maybe a little too herbal for some noses, but I think the black currant leaf cuts through nicely. It suits summer days. I prefer this over Imaginary Authors, Telegrama, and Tom Ford, Lavender Extreme. Excellent work from Monsieur Ellena. It lasted 4-6 hours before fading.

Perris Monte Carlo – Mimosa Tanneron – I’m rarely drawn to mimosa scents, and I’m not sure this one will change my thinking. It’s powdery and fluffy as one would expect, hawthorn adds a honeyed twist, while rose and musk provide a clean, watery backbone. The combined effects of the notes evoke a hay-like smell. It is tender, airy, uncomplicated, and feminine. Shades of L’Eau d’Hiver, Ellena’s creation for Frederic Malle, albeit less full-bodied. Worth checking out if you’re a fan of mimosa. Much like the lavender, it lasted 4-6 hours. 

Three solid offerings from the brand, well worth checking out. All in EdP, all best suited for summer, but can work all year round. Have you tried them yet? Do you have a favourite?

Note: Samples were obtained by the author from Bloom Perfume London, who offer a sample shipping service to many parts of the world.