Romano Ricci, the brains behind Juliette Has A Gun (JHAG), seems like such an interesting character. He’s one of the founders of Nose Paris and the great-grandson of Nina Ricci. In addition, he’s the grandson of the celebrated perfumer Robert Ricci (L’air du Temps). They’re impressive roots, to be sure, but his brand has never excited me, and none of the perfumes from JHAG have made any impression on me whatsoever. And I’ve always suspected they try too hard, emphasising being edgy and cool over producing a decent fragrance.
So, I always try something new from the house with some skepticism. But might their latest fragrance buck the trend? They’ve released a vetiver (Ex Vetiver), and I must always sample whenever that note is involved. As usual, the perfume comes accompanied by nonsensical marketing and imagery. In the advertisement for the scent, three guys chase a woman into a maze to discover her alluring perfume (Ex Vetiver – a feminine fragrance dedicated to men). But despite all signs pointing to the contrary, it turns out it’s a solid scent—indeed, a thumbs up from me.
The opening citrusy notes of bergamot and lemon set the scene and lay a verdant platform for the vetiver heart to take over. The brand lists three vetiver varieties (Haitian, Indonesian, and Indian) as part of the scent. With three types of vetiver in the breakdown, one might think we’re in for a nuanced ride showcasing all facets of vetiver. That doesn’t occur, as what we get here is primarily mineralic, clean, and streamlined.
The mineral element surely comes courtesy of Givaudan’s special Indian sand vetiver. https://parfumplusmag.com/article/givaudan-takes-vetiver-roots-back-to-their-native-country-india/ I’d love to get a breakdown showing the total percentage amount of each vetiver the brand used in the composition. Besides the mineral nuances, I pick a slightly nutty aspect from the vetiver notes. Yet, even though Ex Vetiver doesn’t showcase the full spectrum of vetiver’s potential (there’s no smokiness, earthiness, or dampness), I still can’t help but enjoy wearing the perfume. Indeed, I’ve turned to my sample multiple times over the last week.
Ex Vetiver finishes in the customary JHAG way on a bed of musks and Ambroxan. I’d compare the perfume with Byredo’s Bal d’Afrique and, to a lesser extent, but due to that slight nutty aspect, Vétiver Tonka from Hermès. If you’re a fan of Byredo, you’ll almost certainly enjoy Ex Vetiver. Indeed, it’s a pleasant surprise, though, in the vast field of vetiver perfumes, it won’t displace the likes of Sycomore and Guerlain’s Vetiver from the top of the grassy pile.
How do you feel about the brand? Does Ex Vetiver sound like something you may enjoy?
Note: All images are my own. I purchased the sample of Ex Vetiver.
I’ll give it a try next time I see it in a store. My favorite JHAG is Mad Madame, a rose-patchouli that stands up to the chill of winter.
Let me know what you make of it, Nose Prose. I don’t think I’ve sampled Mad Madame. It sounds pretty good, though.
I am curious to try this one! Tks for sharing!
Thanks for reading and commenting, Tetê. I’m curious to know what you’ll make of it.
When I heard about this release, it took me by surprise, as it’s not typical JHAG territory. Like you, dear Daniel, I must try anything vetiver. Your insights and pics are great, as always.
Yes, not typical for the brand. It’s a nicely done scent, though. Thanks as always, Rich.
JHAG have never captured my perfumed £’s. I was gifted a discovery set about a decade ago, to me they all smelt similar. This meant I missed out on Lipstick Fever. A friend sent me a sample & I love it.
I suspect my youngest son will appreciate Ex-Vetiver in his Christmas stocking
Indeed, Alityke. Definitely worth getting your son to have a sample of Ex Vetiver.
JHAG isn’t my brand as well, though I enjoyed (and almost finished) a 7 ml decant of Miss Charming – one of Kurkdjian’s roses that he did for another brand, which I happened to like more than most of his own brand’s offerings. I might even think about a bottle one day.
Since I like vetiver, and I’m a big fan of BdA, I should seek this new perfume out (these days it costs the same to buy a sample and to park in SF to test it in a store 🙂 ).
Yes for sure, Undina. It’s very similar to the Byredo. Worth seeking out. I know the feeling with the expensive parking.
JHAG is a very tricky brand, Daniel. While I’ve sampled many, I’ve only ever liked a few, but not enough to make a purchase. This one might be worth a sniff.
Yes, worth a try for sure, Flaconneur. Particularly if you enjoy vetiver.