Perfume Reviews – Bastille Parfums

With the Olympic Games in full swing in Paris, I thought I’d review a French brand with a very French name (Bastille Parfums) offering a range of perfumes I’ve come to enjoy over the last few months. I initially sampled the brand’s perfumes in 2020 and thought they were solid offerings without being mind-blowing. However, their last two perfumes, released under a new creative partnership (Sophie Maisant and Pascal Hyafil), impressed me much more than their original set of five fragrances. Below are my mini-reviews of each and a link to their website should you want to read up on the house.

https://bastilleparfums.com/en

Bataille by Nicolas Beaulieu — The initial spray on the skin brings to mind the aromatic, woody patchouli of Tempo and the kaleidoscopic spices of 34 Boulevard Saint Germain from Diptyque. As it goes on, the rubbery leather facets of saffron become apparent. The patchouli in the base smells clean and wearable and much less damp and earthy than Tempo. The synthetic ambery notes in the base never become too overwhelming. Still, I’m not sure I’d pick this over the more dynamic Diptyque perfumes. 6.5/10.

Pleine Lune by Paul Guerlain and Anne Flipo — The fragrance opens fresh, flowery, and bright. The white floral bouquet comprised of jasmine and tuberose smells clean and pristine. Guerlain and Flipo contrast the white florals against earthy, green matcha tea. I might have enjoyed this more if the matcha tea facet had more punch. Sadly, it lacks bite, as does the floral component. Pleine Lune smells subtle, unassuming, pretty, and unremarkable. It all sits on a gentle, easy-to-wear woody base of sandalwood and cedar. 6/10.

Demain Promis by Caroline Dumar — I’m not sure about this one. It’s supposedly evocative of a milk bath. And it is indeed milky, with an aromatic layer of lavender/clary sage for foil. Cardamon and other spices give it a touch of character. But it feels a bit off as if the milk has been sitting in the sun too long. Though, its offbeat fougere-like structure provides enough attraction to keep me absorbed. You may find it interesting if you enjoy milky scents such as Lumière Blanche from Olfactive Studio or Basilica from Milano Fragranze. 6/10. 

Un Deux Trois Soleil by Domitille Michalon Bertier — The brands take on Hypnotic Poison? Certainly, it’s a riff on Dior’s familiar almond/vanilla design. It possesses some of the usual playdough marzipan aspects that one expects from such a blend. In addition to the vanillic sweetness, tonka and heliotrope join forces, broadening its gourmand tendencies. The medley of gourmand notes gives the perfume a powdery, nutty, cherry-like identity. Incense gives it a welcome edge. Ultimately, it’s too close to food for my taste. 6/10.

Hors-Piste by Domitille Michalon Bertier — Hors-Piste was my pick from the brand’s initial five perfume releases. However, unlike others, I don’t see any comparisons to the original Dior Homme Sport (2008). Hors-Piste features a sweeter, citric signature courtesy of tangerine and orange instead of Dior Homme Sport’s ginger zing. Ginger eventually appears, albeit in a more muted form, but the main protagonists are the citruses, juniper, and tea. Juniper, which brings its refreshing aroma of gin and tonic to the table, works well alongside the herbal soothing mate tea accord. Indeed, it smells good enough to drink, and the combination of notes makes for a compelling alternative to a one-dimensional citrus-dominant summer scent. The synthetic base may disappoint some, though. 6.5/10.

Rayon Vert by Caroline Dumar — As I mentioned in my introduction, the first five perfumes from Bastille smell like satisfactory, solid pieces of work. But their last two perfumes, Rayon Vert (2022) and Paradis Nuit (2023), take it up a notch. They both smell like highly original, high-quality niche perfumes. Rayon Vert’s got a distinct spicy aniseed flavour. Buyer beware, though, to truly love this one with its predominance of fennel and anise notes, you’ll likely have to enjoy liquorice. For mine, the supporting notes of basil, chamomile, angelica, and immortelle give Rayon Vert a relatively balanced herbal, spicy backbone. Excellent work from Caroline Dumar. 8.5/10.

Paradis Nuit by Nicolas Beaulieu — There’s some oddness at play in Paradis Nuit. The first notion is one of clean, meticulous grooming. The Marseille soap accord with its clean, sudsy qualities, doesn’t feel particularly bubbly or effervescent (I don’t get the feeling of sparkly aldehydes) but somewhat more waxy or chalky. Beaulieu crosses the soapy opening with a powdery honey-like floral accord of mimosa. It’s anchored on a creamy, buttery sandalwood base, embellished with cacao (just a dusting) and chocolatey patchouli. There’s even a touch of aromatic, grassy hay in the base. So, instead of a bland, soapy scent, we’re left with a nuanced, velvety, sleek piece of work that smells rather peculiar. 8.5/10.

There aren’t any duds in the collection, but Bastille’s last two fragrances are comfortably their best. The brand’s transparency is commendable, as a complete list of the natural and synthetic ingredients used in each composition is available on their website. One major criticism I could level at the perfumes might be that they need a little more throw. But I’d take a more discreet scent over an obnoxious room filler any day of the week. For the crazy people with millions of perfumes, the brand sells relatively affordable 15ml travel sprays.

The only perfume I’ve not touched on here is their latest, 14 Juillet. I’ve had a quick sample of it and am thoroughly intrigued by its contrast of smoke, floral freshness, and powdery sweetness. It smells like you’re watching fireworks by a river next to a French pâtisserie. Evidently, with its release, the brand seems to be on a roll. And I’m excited to see what comes next.

Have you tried Bastille Parfums? Do you have a favourite? Which one intrigues you most?

Note: All images are my own. And the samples were purchased by me.