In April, I wrote about the French ceramics house Astier de Villate and their lovely linden scent, Grand Chalet First Impressions – Astier de Villatte – Grand Chalet. Now comes another linden-focused perfume from the dynamic duo of Barrois and Bisch. They’ve made quite a splash on the fragrance scene since they’ve teamed up. Room fillers Gaynmede and Encelade were huge hits. Many perfume playlists feature their high-octane scents in heavy rotation. Tilia feels like a departure from their previous successes and smells more like Barrois and Bisch’s attempt at a ballad. And every band needs one of those.
As a linden scent, Tilia smells a tad more abstract than Grand Chalet. But it features similar soft, sunny floral contours. If you’re after something that approximates the smell of linden, go with Grand Chalet or Acca Kappa’s Tilia Cordata. Tilia smells sweet, with the citric/beeswax characteristics of the lime blossom on full display. Bisch draws on Spanish broom to enhance the honeyed aspects of Tilia. Heliotrope lends its warming, powdery almond/vanillic influence to proceedings.
The unmistakable trademark riffs of Barrois/Bisch play a part, too, albeit in a much toned-down form. An off-beat, sparkly, silvery, almost metallic shimmer surrounds Tilia. The brand lists Ambrofix and Georgywood in the note pyramid. And though it isn’t listed, Bisch’s beloved Akigalawod might also be part of Tilia. I like the use of synthetics in Tilia, though others may disagree. But for mine, they’re well-judged and play their part in strengthening the perfume rather than acting as a barrier to enjoyment.
There’s something green here, too, but it’s hard to pin down and has the texture of a tennis ball—an almost unnatural fuzzy green. This part of the perfume reminds me of the Soft Lawn from Imaginary Authors. Jasmine and vetiver augment Tilia’s green drydown. Costume National from Cyber Garden came to mind with its almost artificial green facets. Like that fragrance, I think of Tilia as unorthodox, unusual, and other-worldly. Tilia isn’t a linden tree from this earth. In full disclosure, I haven’t smelled a linden tree in years. So, I’ll leave the authenticity of Tilia’s linden note for others to judge.
There’s no mistaking this as a Marc Antoine Barrois, though. Even though it’s softer and slower (the ballad the brand needed), much of the signature sharp-edge licks remain from their previous compositions. Some wearers feel the brand’s scents bring on waves of nostalgia, and I might agree, especially here with Tilia. But to me, scents such as Ganymede, Encelade, and Tilia smell decidedly futuristic with their compelling blending of natural and synthetic materials. However you feel about the brand, one can’t deny that its scents are always thought-provoking. There aren’t many linden scents on the market, so they get another tick for being off-trend. Indeed, Tilia is one of the most intriguing compositions I’ve tried in 2024.
Have you tried Tilia? Do you have a favourite linden scent? I note that Quentin Bisch composed a linden perfume for Le Galion in 2020. I wonder how they compare? Has anyone tried that one?
All images are mine except the Tilia bottle image (Fragrantica). Tilia sample obtained by me.
Fabulous review! I am actually wearing Tilia today, it’s been a favorite of mine since I got it. For my surprise, my husband is addicted to it as well! For me, it’s hard to describe this perfume: sweet floral with some bitterness. The way it fills the room without overwhelming anyone is fantastic. I am still wondering what is its secret. I wasn’t a fan of the house’s previous releases ( for me to wear, maybe on others), this one though, it’s definitely a winner!
Thank you very much, Tetê! Ah, that’s brilliant. I’m glad you like it. Yes, I think it’s their softest scent yet, but I think both men and women might enjoy wearing it. That’s interesting you mention the bitterness, might it be the green elements or the heliotrope (bitter almond)? And I agree, Tilia might introduce the brand to a whole new audience.
I was thinking that these scents all sound a bit “alien” (probably influenced by their previous space references and Masque Milano’s Ray-Flection being called an “alien flower”), until I read further and you nailed it with “futuristic”. The red nozzle on this bottle is a nice touch. I’ll give it a sniff if I see it.
Yes, their perfumes are all a little left of centre, which makes them somehow captivating. I’d be interested to know what you make of it Nose Prose, given your fondness for Ray-Flection. They don’t smell the same, but they have the similar structure of yellow florals and honeyed sweetness.
I shall be visiting our local rec later today. There are lime trees down there & one in particular I always stand beneath during the dog walk. The smell under there is pure happiness! So fleeting though, gone within a week. Those in the field at the foot of our cul de sac don’t have enough shelter & the scent doesn’t gather beneath the canopy as well.
My favourite linden/lime blossom scent is Idle by Romilly Wilde. Rare as rocking horse pooh but beautifully photorealistic. D’Orsay still do a linden called Vouloir Être Ailleurs C.G. I want to try it but getting a sample isn’t easy
That sounds like scented bliss. I hope you enjoyed your walk, Alityke. I don’t know the Romilly Wade scent, and I need to try that D’Orsay as I’m certain Olivia Giacobetti has done a great job with it.
Linden is one of my favorite scents, Daniel. I’m going to have to sample Tilia for myself. Thanks for sharing.
I’d be curious to know what you make of it, Flaconneur. I like it as a perfume, but I’m not sure how faithful to the scent of linden it is. Do share your thoughts when you get a chance to sample Tilia.