Perfume Review – Frapin – Bonne Chauffe – Excellent Rendition of Cognac – 8/10.
Notes:
Top: Davana, pepper.
Middle: Plum, bran absolute, oakwood.
Base: Patchouli, cedar, vetiver, benzoin.
I’ve never been drawn to boozy fragrances. I think it’s because I find most of them too sharp, too syrupy, and often over-the-top. Many have a cloying aspect that can become overwhelming over time, and they lack versatility. Indeed, due to their heavy nature, they tend to project and last for many hours. Therefore, unless I intervene, I’m stuck with it for the long haul. Consequently, it’s no surprise that houses that base their whole schtick on recreating the perfect brew in perfume form aren’t at the top of my sample list.
One such brand is Frapin, a cognac producer with a centuries-long history. They ventured into the fragrance world in 2002 and have since launched 23 fragrances (according to Parfumo), which isn’t a large number by industry standards. However, none of their offerings have truly resonated with me.
I struck out with two of their heavy hitters, 1270 and Speakeasy. Both are far too sweet for my taste. The closest I’ve come to finding a love from the brand was with L’Humaniste. However, as many will agree, its gin-and-tonic profile is so fleeting that it leaves little impression. In 2023, the brand gave us Bonne Chauffe, which literally translates to “good heating” and refers to the second distillation process in cognac production. It is indeed a boozy fragrance, yet it remains classy and refined. The scent features a plum note, and despite the dangers to my wallet, I’m like a moth to a flame whenever I see plum in a perfume pyramid.
I can smell the plum as soon as I apply. It’s rich and velvety, and recreated here in part through a generous dose of davana oil. In addition to the stewed fruits, there’s an almost herbal nuance that balances the sweeter, syrupy character of the plum liqueur. Gradually, a malted whisky/oak facet emerges. As it mingles with the smoky ambery benzoin accord, I can imagine myself cozied up by the fireplace with a drink and cigar in hand on a cold winter’s night.
The fruity qualities last for most of the scent’s life. However, it feels more than just a one-dimensional, flat throwaway. Great thought has gone into its creation. The bran note resembles the doughy, fermented lees sediment found in oak barrels, and it’s almost as if you’re in the room where all the vats are stored. Patchouli and pepper bring in an earthiness. The previously mentioned benzoin solidifies the base, adding a warm, resinous touch. Cedar and vetiver tie things together. They’ve used Javanese vetiver in Bonne Chauffe, which is smokier and denser than other varieties. This choice works well within this composition, evoking log cabins and campfire comfort without becoming too overpowering. Bonne Chauffe subtly evolves in character, making it feel more like a complete perfume rather than just the spilled drink on your shirt from a wild night out.
I included Bonne Chauffe on my Best Perfumes of 2023 list, but I’ve never bought a bottle. I’ve been tempted to purchase a 15ml travel spray, though. Instead, I’ve survived on numerous samples of the scent I’ve received as gifts with purchase. Perhaps the universe is trying to tell me something. I do wonder how much use I would get from the fragrance, as I see it as better suited to cold weather. Unfortunately, we don’t have many cold days in South East Queensland. Still, I’ve turned to it quite a bit this winter, having gone through two 1.5ml samples. I have a couple of samples left, so they should do me for now.
I thoroughly enjoy wearing Bonne Chauffe. Indeed, if anyone was going to produce a high-quality cognac scent, it was going to be Frapin. The perfumer behind the fragrance is Meabh McCurtin, an up-and-coming Irish talent. I’ll definitely be keeping an eye (and nose) out for her future creations. I’ve appreciated several of her perfumes, including 14 Juillet by Bastille Parfums and some of her work for Vyrao. Bonne Chauffe lasts for 8-10 hours on my skin before fading. I’d recommend saving it for the colder weather; it would become far too intrusive in the warm weather. Great stuff. I’ll raise a glass to Meabh and Frapin. Cheers!
What are your thoughts on Frapin? Do you have a favourite boozy scent?
Note: Bottle image from Frapin. All other images are my own. Samples purchased by me.