Have you ever experienced the dream of soaring through the air while floating on the clouds? It symbolises breaking free from all your worries, suggesting a sense of contentment. Surprisingly, it’s quite a common dream. Musc Pallida, the new edition to the Hermessence collection, embodies the sensation of floating into the wide blue yonder —unshackled, blissful, and carefree. Christine Nagel’s latest scent for the brand’s higher-end collection is an Eau de Parfum (EDP) version of the Musc Pallida oil, which first hit shelves in 2018. Since I never sampled the oil, I cannot compare the two. Musc Pallida is totally new to me, but I thoroughly enjoyed what I sampled at the French brand’s Brisbane boutique.
Everything about Musc Pallida smells rounded and silky. The aldehydes feel gentle and caressing, with an almost almond-like top accord. Unlike some other aldehydic compositions, these aldehydes don’t come across as cold, thanks to the musky notes that evoke the feeling of warm skin. I typically prefer musky scents with a bit of a dirtier facet, but you won’t find that in Musc Pallida. And to be honest, they wouldn’t feel right here. Despite its evident radio-friendly cuddliness, polish, and simplicity, one can’t help but appreciate its undeniable elegance.
Aside from the musk and aldehydes, the main component of the scent, as the name suggests, is iris. This floral component made me think of Chanel’s 1957, but the iris in that one goes too powdery for my taste. In Musc Pallida, Nagel keeps things uncluttered, but never meek. We often hear the phrase “your skin but better” used to describe a fragrance, and it fits Musc Pallida perfectly. The iris doesn’t become too thick and avoids the typical associations with lipstick and cosmetics. Instead, it resembles a luxurious, velvety, creamy body lotion. As it unfolds on the skin, I detect subtle, suede-like undertones.
There are hints of fruity sweetness, too. I guess there could be some ambrette, or the sweetness may be from the aldehydes. Musc Pallida shares some similar notes with the new Le Labo Violette 30. While I liked the Le Labo, I think Musc Pallida holds together better, despite its delicate, transparent qualities. Its weightless characteristics do indeed make it feel as if you are floating through fluffy white clouds. Wearing Musc Pallida left me feeling relaxed and calm.
There are no rough edges from woody ambery notes, thank heavens. And, as is typical of this collection, there’s none of the excessive poodlery of Tom Ford, Parfums de Marly, or Xerjoff. With its simple, elegant bottle, clear marketing description, and coherent execution, Musc Pallida stands alongside its Hermessence stablemates, providing a refreshing contrast to the loud, brash, attention-seeking brands that plague the modern perfume landscape.
I should compare Musc Pallida to Hiris and Iris Ukiyoé, two other iris fragrances from the same house. While the scents differ, all three share a lovely, serene, reflective, and floaty quality. Hiris is more powdery and vegetal, whereas Iris Ukiyoé features a watercolour citrus aspect. Musc Pallida takes on a creamier, warmer consistency. As it unveils its silky layers, it feels like the perfect scent to wear while listening to the atmospheric, ambient, ethereal music of Enya or Brian Eno. It’s a lovely piece of work from the unfairly maligned Christine Nagel, and well worth seeking out if you enjoy Chanel’s 1957, Comète, and even Musc de Sables from Les Indémodables.
There’s no way I’d pay for the 100ml bottle of Musc Pallida, though. Luckily, Hermès offers customers the option to buy Hermessence in 4 x 15ml packaging. It’s a godsend for those with large collections. I’d probably purchase it alongside the vetiver, the rose, and the iris. But it’s hard to go wrong with any of them. Cuir d’Ange remains my favourite.
Although I mentioned I enjoy my musk scents with an animalic facet, I have found myself increasingly appreciating uncomplicated, well-crafted fragrances that are easy to wear. Christine Nagel may cop a lot of flak from pundits who long for the return of Jean-Claude Ellena. However, I think she has crafted some absolutely brilliant fragrances for the brand, including Galop, Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate, and H24. I would add Musc Pallida to the list as well.
Note: First image from Hermès. All other photos are my own.
