I admit I can be a shallow guy when it comes to perfume. Whenever I see an attractive fragrance bottle, I can’t help but want to sample it. Invariably, I end up disappointed. However, I have high hopes for Chambre52. They’re everywhere, winning accolades and awards, and not just for their lovely bottles. For those appealing flacons, the brand called upon the design services of Jules Dinand, grandson of the legendary designer Pierre Dinand, who created iconic bottles for Calvin Klein (Eternity) and YSL (Opium), among others.
As for the perfumes, Nicolas Dewitte, the brand owner, drew inspiration for his six fragrances from his experience at a hotel in São Paolo, Brazil. Chambre52 refers to his room number at the hotel. As far as niche shtick goes, this brand doesn’t seem too pretentious. But none of this matters; ultimately, it’s what’s inside the bottle that counts. Here are my initial impressions, and here’s a link to their page.
Soleil Tonka
Notes: Sea spray, tonka bean, coconut, Ambroxan, vanilla.
You’ve smelled Soleil Tonka a million times before—milky coconut over sweet vanilla mixed with almondy tonka. I interpret it as a revisititation of Blanche Bete, with perhaps a hint of Vanilla Powder. Take both of those and add in a seedy marine undercurrent, and you’ll arrive at Soleil Tonka. Jean-Christophe Hérault paints or attempts to paint a picture of a sun-soaked beach vista. It ends in cliché. I don’t get the beach environment, but maybe if I squint, I see milky white flowers in the sun. If I were staying in this room, I’d request to be moved.
Orencie
Notes: Rose, lychee, musk, Rhodinol, sandalwood, milk, angelica root, amber, cedar, geranium.
The marketing material for Orencie highlights themes of sunlight, linen, and clean skin. But the cloying opening contradicts the messaging. Instead of a clean fragrance, it smells more like I’ve spilled some cheap fruit cocktail over my clothes. Eventually, the crass, candied lychee and rose fade into a nondescript, amber, woody drydown. Weak. Caroline Dumur, get to your room this instant!
Contre Ta Peau
Notes: Neroli, orange blossom absolute, heliotrope, vanilla absolute, musk, anise, and pink pepper.
Ah, it’s Caroline Dumur again. I knew she was better than Orencie suggested. Contre Ta Peau is a nicely done orange blossom that doesn’t overdo the vanilla sweetness. In other words, it’s not just another marshmallow scent in the style of Love Don’t Be Shy. While there is vanilla in the composition, the majority of the fluffy, hazy sweetness comes from heliotrope. I didn’t detect any animalic notes despite them being listed. I’m not sure, I’d spend my money on such a simple composition, though. Three days into my stay at Chambre52, the service has improved, but there’s still room for improvement, onto the next one.
Tobacco Memories
Notes: Sour cherry, tobacco, iris, juniper, saffron, incense, vanilla, and oakmoss.
Domitille Michalon-Bertier enters the room with Tobacco Memories. For what it’s worth, this won an award. But I only like some of its elements, and smelling it, I can only deduce that it must have been a down year for niche perfumes in 2024. The saffron note at the top feels quite rough and rubbery. While the softness of the iris smooths it out somewhat, the saffron lingers on for too long. Without the saffron, Tobacco Memories might have appealed to me more. Cherry doesn’t overwhelm the scent with cheap sweetness, but there’s still something about it that gives me pause; perhaps an amberwood? In the end, I’ll stick to tobacco and cherry scents like Burberry London for Men and Lhomme Ideal EdP. My favourite tobacco memories come courtesy of Tabacco Toscano from Santa Maria Novella, though.
Bois Flotté
Notes: Salt flower, cedar, sandalwood, turmeric, patchouli, cashmeran, nutmeg, and black pepper.
Bois Flotté, as the name suggests, carries a maritime element. At times, it smells salty and slightly damp. While I wouldn’t choose to wear it, I’m initially intrigued by the contrast between the damp marine notes and the drier wooden elements. The addition of turmeric introduces a zingy, gingery, earthy brightness that provides some lift. Eventually, though, my initial interest wanes, becoming buried in the weedy, murky reeds of the base notes. I think it satisfies the brief, as I can picture driftwood on the beach. This Nicolas Beaulieu composition makes me feel a little uneasy, as if I’ve stepped into a dimly lit room in a haunted house with creaky, dilapidated floorboards.
Cuir à Corps
Notes: Smoky leather, suede, Bourbon vanilla, animalic musk, patchouli, and pink pepper.
What in the world happened here? As I spray this fabulous Domitille Michalon-Bertier composition, I feel as if I’ve checked into a different hotel. Cuir à Corps certainly makes a strong statement. It’s clearly the best of the Chambre52 line. It’s a grey, silvery, ashy suede enveloped in a hint of animalic musk.
Meanwhile, creamy, earthy vanilla and patchouli evoke a sense of winter coziness. I can practically hear the crackle of the fireplace. Cuir à Corps is the perfume that didn’t pander to the focus groups or follow the fragrance trends, and it’s all the better for it. I thought of the alluring skin musks of L’Air de Rien tethered to the leathery charm of Habit Rouge.
Summary
As I’ve mentioned in my title, one swallow doesn’t make a summer, and I’d need to see a stronger output from the brand moving forward. Out of all the fragrances, there’s really only one that delivers through the drydown. As such, the hype isn’t justified.
Soleil Tonka and Orencie feel like budget hotel stays—think Ibis Budget—where the lights flicker and the taps leak. Alarmingly, the hotel proprietor’s name is Basil. Contre Ta Peau and Tobacco Memories up the ante with free WI-Fi and complimentary breakfast, with Holiday Inn amenities. Bois Flotté, on the other hand, scares me and sends me adrift at sea. When I’m in Cuir à Corps, I do the intimidating, the staff know me by name yet call me sir and ask if I’d like a pillow menu.
Chambre52 scents come in 52ml, 100ml, and 152 ml refill bottles. Prices range from 160 euros for the small size to 220 euros for the 100ml.
Which room interests you? What do you think of the bottle designs?
Note: Bottle image from the brand. All other photos are my own. I purchased the discovery set.
