For a house built on its heavy, ambery, syrupy scents, Serge Lutens has produced its fair share of good, lighter fragrances. I’ve always been intrigued by L’Eau Froide, the brand’s icy reprise to Cool Water. Despite its name, though, L’Eau Froide wasn’t so much a Cool Water retort, but more of a return to basics anti-perfume, forming part of their much reviled water (L’Eau) collection. Indeed, in my warmer climate, I often feel inclined to reach for the brand’s brighter, crisper fragrances over Chergui or Ambre Sultan. Blasphemous, I know!
In 2022, they introduced their new Matins Collection. Matins feels like an extension of L’Eau, a line that concluded in 2016 with L’Eau de Paille. Peaceful, pared-back scents characterise the Matins range. There are four fragrances in all: Dans le bleu qui pétille, Parole d’Eau, L’Eau, and Point du jour. I’ve tried all four, but it’s the 2024 release Point du jour that I think is the best of the bunch.
Even the marketing material for this quartet comes across as refreshingly simple. The brand describes Point du jour as “A noble awakening with thyme at daybreak.” They list three notes in the pyramid: thyme, eucalyptus, and clary sage. But, as anyone who’s been around long enough knows, there’s often more to these Serge Lutens note pyramids than meets the eye. Indeed, Sheldrake usually has a few surprises in store for the wearer.
I think a few extra things are bubbling away in Point du jour, too, but not as many as in the brand’s more complex arrangements. I’d describe Point du jour as dry and herbal. Initially, I get an almost gastronomic impression of ground thyme, rosemary, and sage in a bowl. The essential oils of the herbal assemblage release as I crush and grind them with a pestle. This initial herbal burst transports me to the rustic kitchen of a picturesque country cottage.
But after about 10-15 minutes, the environment shifts. Suddenly, I’m outside. The dry camphor of eucalyptus creeps in as if the gum leaves have been crackled and scorched by the morning sun. There’s a curative, restorative effect to Point du jour. It’s so serene. George Costanza’s dad would have been content with these levels of serenity. I sense the delicate calm of dried lavender and the rejuvenating lift of shaving foam as Point du jour unveils more of its facets.
Indeed, this release possesses the bracing herbal bite that attracts me to L’Eau Froide. I guess the camphor gives Point du jour its coolness, but it never gets as icy as L’Eau Froide. The herbs keep it dry, and I perceive it as more autumnal than wintery. You can wear this year-round, however. The incense and lavender subtleties nod to Encens et Lavande. Eucalyptus 20 from Le Labo shares some of its parched, dusty traits too. Finally, there’s the suggestion of dry tobacco leaf in the style of Feuilles de Tabac from Miller Harris.
As for the other fragrances in the line, if you don’t like aquatics, it’d be best to skip Dans le bleu qui pétille and L’Eau. I did enjoy the more citric, pine-focused Parole d’Eau, though. It also features eucalyptus, but it comes across as cooler, sharper, and more astringent than Point du jour. Ultimately, Point du jour emerges victorious; it’s a marvelous piece of work, deeper than it seems and well worth trying if you enjoy dry, fresh fragrances.
Have you sampled the line? Do you have a favourite fresh scent from Lutens?
Note: Bottle image from Serge Lutens, all other photos are my own. I purchased the sample of Point du jour.
Great review, curious to try it, although I guess it’s not something i would wear.
Thanks very much, Tetê. Yes it’s a very specific fragrance. You have to enjoy dry, herbal fragrances. Let me know what you think, when you sample it.
Not immediately sounding like my cup of tea, but it might be given the right contemplative circumstances. I’m not that familiar with the L’Eau scents in the collection.
Yes, worth a try at least. But, as I said, it’s a profile you need to like.
I’m a Serge fangirl but I find the big Moroccan inspired fragrances less everyday in my retirement. Now may be the time to give this lighter range a whirl.
Yes, there’s no doubt those scents are some of the best in class. But, these days I’m seeking out less complicated fragrances. Hopefully you can find the perfumes in store, Alityke. I find the brand is getting harder and harder to sample in Australia.
Somebody has been a busy boy recently creating all these beautiful posts. Your blasphemy, ha! ha!, makes absolute sense.
Haha. Thanks very much, Rich.
Great view of Point du jour, Daniel. I wasn’t terribly impressed with any of the offerings within the Matin Lutens collection. Point du jour was the only perfume that provides a glimmer of hope in the group. This is a simply concoction, served up à la Serge Lutens. Clary sage, eucalyptus and thyme with just a minor infusion of smoke. It’s my favorite of the group as well. Outside of Point du jour, my other go to is L’Eau Froide.
Yes, it certainly stood out among the others. I’m glad you like L’Eau Froide too. Thank you, Flaconneur.