Tonka Latte – Pissara Umavijani (2025) – 5/10.
Dusita’s latest isn’t the sort of thing that’s going to get the heart racing, unless you’re an avid gourmand fan. It’s a sugary, fluffy tonka/vanilla fragrance, the likes of which we’ve seen a million times before. The main protagonists or ingredients in this recipe, almond and tonka bean, combine to create a marzipan-like effect. And as the title suggests, there’s a distinct milky facet, accentuated by a white chocolate accord. Honey brings in some additional sweetness. I appreciate that it’s not too cloying, but I couldn’t wear this sort of thing for hours on end. Furthermore, it’s not something I’d reach for daily.
It stands out for being something different for the brand. Still, over the last few years, there have been countless similar scents, notably Bianco Latte from Giardini Di Toscana and Vanilla Sex from Tom Ford. I suppose the brand thought they needed something like this to expand their portfolio. It’s harmless and innocuous, but neither overly exciting nor particularly nuanced. Dusita shines when they create aromatics and florals, such as last year’s excellent marine iris, Pelagos, and the previous year’s Rosarine. Pissara doesn’t quite get the crema right in Tonka Latte, and as such, it feels a little thin.
Rosarine – Pissara Umavijani (2023) – 8/10.
Pissara works wonders with florals. See Splendiris and Pelagos A Wave Of Marine Perfumes – Room 1015 – Wavechild, Francesca Bianchi – The Mariner’s Rhyme & Dusita – Pelagos, for examples. Rosarine sees her take on the queen of flowers, the rose. These sorts of fruity roses with patchouli backbones aren’t exactly uncommon, and they don’t often work on me. So, it’s a testament to her skill that this is one of the few fruity roses I enjoy. Lovers of Rose Jam from Lush and Malle’s Portrait of a Lady may enjoy Rosarine.
I’m a little hesitant on the first spray. It’s a jammy rose with fruity touches of lychee and raspberry. Will this be another ‘hit me over the head’ pink hammer, like Delina? Luckily no. As the fragrance develops, the rose notes (Bulgarian and rose de mai) take on some interesting nuances. Roasrine turns smoky, woody, and ever so slightly powdery.
Infused with the fruity, musky liqueur of ambrette and softened under the influence of orris and jasmine, Rosarine takes on a life of its own. Indeed, it’s a clever use of ambrette, giving the roses a glistening veneer. After the sparkle and light, the shadows grow longer. Patchouli and woods see Rosarine turn darker and earthier in its concluding stages. It’s the perfect elixir for a cool-weather day, with the ideal balance of notes that ensures the fruity sweetness never becomes oppressive.
Have you tried these fragrances? Do you have a favourite Dusita?
Note: All pictures are mine. I purchased samples of Rosarine and Tonka Latte.
Your review on Tonka Latte made me think of Luca Turin’s comment on niche perfumery nowadays, in which copying is everywhere in order to put up with trends… so true!
Yes, it’s hard to find anything original.
Tonka Latte wasn’t for me either. The Caramac opening was just too much sugar! I much prefer Guerlain’s Shalimar Millesime Tonka
Yes, far too much sugar. I never sampled Shalimar Tonka. I only tried the iris and the jasmine. I much preferred the jasmine as the iris had too much of that caramel sugar like the Dusita.
I was curious because of the name, but now don’t think I’m missing out. I wish tonka smelled more like tonka in perfumery and wasn’t often heavily disguised in vanilla or almond.
You’re right, Nose Prose. All the fragrances that I enjoy with tonka usually pair it with lavender or almond or vanilla. I enjoyed Bean from And Fragrance, but that includes a distinct lavender/licorice accord. share. Fourreau Noir from Serge Lutens has almond and lavender and smoke. Myrrh and Tonka from Jo Malone is quite good too, but obviously includes myrrh. Apparently Celine’s Zouzou has a good tonka note, but I’m yet to try it. Looks like it has vanilla too, though.