Review – Hermès – Terre d’Hermès EDT – The Best From The Line

Review – Hermès – Terre d’Hermès – Modern Classic – 9/10.

Where has the time gone? It seems only yesterday that Terre d’Hermès hit the market. Indeed, it was almost 20 years ago, in 2006, that one of Jean-Claude Ellena’s finest launched onto the shelves. It’s interesting to look back and see how different the perfume industry was at the time. The number of releases for 2006 totalled around 1,400 (according to Parfumo), far less than what we see today, but still a significant number. The niche world was yet to reach its full potential in terms of sheer popularity. Still, perhaps through the likes of Serge Lutens, Frederic Malle, and L’Artisan Parfumeur, it had already achieved a creative apex.

For me, though, it was all about the designer scents. It was around this time (maybe a couple of years earlier) that I was going down the perfume rabbit hole. And the mid-noughties were a particularly prolific time for designer brands. Men had some pretty good choices, courtesy of the big brands. Dior had just released Dior Homme (2005), Chanel had their Allure Homme line, YSL had their L’Homme, and Gucci had Pour Homme I & II. I wouldn’t label it the golden years of perfumery, but it was still a good time to be into fragrance.

In contrast to its competitors, Hermès was in a bit of a rut on the men’s side. The arrival of the new in-house perfume, Jean-Claude Ellena, in 2004 changed everything. First came the initial “Un Jardin” fragrances, followed by the launch of the “Hermessence” line, and then, in 2006, the introduction of the new men’s pillar, Terre d’Hermès. Although next year’s 20th birthday milestone might have seemed like the most appropriate time to review Terre, I couldn’t wait. Indeed, after having this blog for over 6 years, I’m surprised I haven’t reviewed it yet. It’s time, especially since its new flanker, Hermès – Terre d’Hermès EDP Intense – Fiery Flanker was released earlier this year.

Some things just never go out of style. In fashion, we have timeless pieces such as a crisp white shirt, a classic leather jacket, or a black dress. In perfume, there aren’t many fragrances that have stood the test of time. Terre d’Hermès surely holds up. Indeed, against the masculine fragrances I mentioned in the second paragraph, it may have held up better. That we’re talking about 20 years after its inception is undoubtedly a good sign.

I’ve waffled long enough. How does it smell? Well, I think most readers of this blog are familiar with the scent. Its top notes consist of a bitter citrus accord made up of orange and grapefruit. There’s a freshness but also a slight, dirty, earthy aspect to the citruses – an almost parched quality. As I spray, I’m transported to a dry Mediterranean summer. I never leave Southern Europe when I wear Terre. The flinty accord gives the perfume remarkable character. It evokes the image of the afternoon sun searing down on ancient ruins. I could be in Greece or Italy.

Indeed, the base notes further emphasise the aromatic, earthy aspects. Famously, the perfume contains no musk notes. Instead, Ellena binds everything together with dusty cedar materials (Iso E Super), patchouli, peppery notes, vegetal geranium, benzoin, and, most prominently, vetiver. The vetiver turns dry, mineralic, herbal, and almost brown. I envision myself in a Spanish courtyard garden surrounded by stone walls—the garden filled with citrus trees and lush green foliage in terracotta pots.

Only the very best perfumes are this transportive. Everything came together for this scent, including the ad campaign/s featuring French actor Clément Sibony, the timing, and most importantly, the quality of the perfume. The only downside to the scent is that it has become so ubiquitous. Nevertheless, after almost 20 years, it remains a cornerstone of masculine perfumery and one of Jean-Claude Ellena’s masterworks. Happy early birthday, and long live Terre d’Hermès.

Your thoughts on the fragrance?

Images are my own. The bottle is my own.

Quick Notes:

Launch Year: 2006.

Perfumer: Jean-Claude Ellena.

Top Notes: Orange, grapefruit.

Mid Notes: Pepper, geranium leaf, and flint.

Base Notes: Cedar, vetiver, benzoin, and patchouli.

Longevity: 6-8 hours.

Projection: 2 hours, medium.

Alternatives: Oddly, for such a popular scent, there haven’t been too many imitators. Perhaps Montale’s Red Vetiver, or if you want to show off, opt for Roja Dove’s Isola Blu. Davidoff Horizon is a cheaper alternative, as is Byblos In Black.

Seasons: Spring, summer, and autumn. Terre works for pretty much any occasion and makes a wonderful signature scent.

Here are some additional photos that evoke this fragrance.