Parfums Quartana – Ierofante – Burning That Gasoline

When I first sprayed Joseph Quartana’s award-winning Ierofante, I was transported back to the late 1990s and early 2000s. Instantly, the light bulb went off, and I thought of Annick Menardo’s Black for Bvlgari. Certainly, Ierofante has all the makings: the same rubbery tyre note, the smooth velvety suede accord, and the warm, cosy, ambery, vanilla sweetness that made the Bvlgari such a classic hit.

But Quartana is undoubtedly also a fan of another famous designer fragrance. He supplements the leather accord with styrax resin and then pours on some gasoline. For an instant, Ierofante starts to resemble the biker leather jacket from Dior’s Fahrenheit. But it doesn’t smell like a leather jacket that’s been through the ringer. Nor is there a leafy green aquatic aspect from any violet leaf, as with the Dior. It smells too shiny and smooth. There’s some restraint here, which is admirable for an indie perfume house: spicy nutmeg and inky vetiver, keeping things aromatic and wearable.

The marketing materials and notes for Ierofante hint at rocket fuel, detonations, and flames. As such, the brand labels its top, middle, and base notes as “Ignition,” “Lift-Off,” and “Arrival.” But it never feels like an explosion of rocket fuel, more like a slow burn. As the fragrance progresses or “lifts off,” I almost pick up a hint of a snuffed-out candle mixing with the suede. The concluding stages feel like a whirl of smoke and musk, which keeps me floating on air. The ambery, musky finish has an air of pillowy comfort, more redolent of a first-class suite than a spaceship cabin.

If you like leather scents, add this one to your list to try. Ierofante feels closely connected to Bvlgari Black, although it lacks its smoky tea note and floral facets. They’re in the same family tree, though. Besides that, if you’re a fan of Dior’s Fahrenheit, inky, earthy vetiver scents, or even some of the woody Comme des Garçons fragrances, you may enjoy this Quartana. I enjoyed my flight, even if it didn’t blast me off into space at a million miles an hour. I’m happy to live life in the slow lane, enjoying beautiful perfumes like Ierofante.

Note: Bottle image from Quartana. All other photos are mine; I purchased the sample. The perfumer behind Ierofante is Luca Maffei. In my next post, I’ll lift the lid on Forest of the Golden Dream.