My forays into Santa Maria Novella’s I Giardini Medicei collection have mainly been successful. So far, I’ve tried and enjoyed four fragrances from the collection. All four fragrances smell cheerful and happy, radiating a pleasant, sunny disposition. Even the iris (L’Iris) defies preconceived notions one might have of an iris fragrance. There’s no sense of melancholy, and it doesn’t evoke lipstick. Yes, it’s slightly powdery, but it’s airy and light, backed by neroli and pillowy musk notes, perfect to wear in the warm weather. Indeed, the other three fragrances I’ve sampled from the collection also suit the spring/summer seasons.
The fizzy Bizzarira smells almost drinkable, with juicy orange and neroli facets to the fore. Subtle spicy hints of pepper and ginger ensure the fragrance remains intriguing—a dry, herbal, woody component of davana and cedar rounds it out. Gelsomino sees us in a garden filled with jasmine flowers and citrus trees. The tangerine in the top produces a honey-like sweetness. The jasmine note leans green, combining with bergamot, to give the impression of smooth, refreshing tea. There’s no hint of dirtiness despite the added presence of ylang-ylang. Magnolia has an almost transparent feel. The opening brushstroke of rose feels light, dewy, and white. The eponymous ingredient links with champaca in the heart but never turns waxy. Instead, I’d label it delicate and watery, underpinned by a soft lemony sweetness. For me, it becomes more about the white rose than the magnolia.
Their 2024 fragrance, Quercia, takes us in a different direction. It’s an aromatic, woody scent that I’d classify as a fougère. The opening bracing herbal flurry, reminiscent of shaving foam, is short-lived on my skin. Quercia rapidly becomes much woodier and darker than the others in the line. The quickfire burst of soapy lavender gives way to a heart of oak and patchouli. It’s green and earthy and, not surprisingly, longer lasting than the others in the collection. Like all fougères, I get hints of geranium and coumarin as it develops.
But the oak and patchouli send Quercia close to “generic” man territory. They’re burly and loud and, to be honest, somewhat harsh renditions of the materials. The Quercia-wearing guy may look well dressed from afar, but get a little closer, and there are some conspicuous fashion faux pas. His belt and shoe colours don’t match, his jacket and trousers are the wrong length, and he’s forgotten to iron his shirt. Perhaps some alterations and deportment classes wouldn’t go astray, or at least a few tweaks to the formula. Whereas the others in the line have a contemporary, lucid feel built around floral accords, Quercia smells somewhat grating, bringing nothing new to the table.
Perhaps I’m being a bit harsh on Quercia. It’s not the worst offender in this woody, aromatic, masculine category, but I can think of countless scents of similar ilk I’d choose over this one. Some that come to mind include Patchouli Intense from Nicolaï, Geo F Trumper Wild Fern, and Masque Milano Sleight of Fern. Indeed, Quercia’s opening smells better than its base. Interestingly, reviews online liken Quercia to Acqua di Parma’s (ADP) scent of the same name, though I haven’t tried that one.
So, with Quercia ticked off my list, I now need to try the other three fragrances in the line: Acqua, Ambra, and Incenso. Here’s my current ranking from favourite to least favourite so far:
- L’Iris
- Magnolia
- Bizzarria
- Gelsomino
- Quercia
Have you tried this line? Do you have a favourite from Santa Maria Novella? Mine is Tabacco Toscano.
Note: Samples purchased by me. Other than the first images, all images are my own.
