The nutty fragrance trend shows no sign of subsiding. Pistachio scents, in particular, have been most in the limelight, but hazelnut fragrances don’t seem too far behind. I’m not entirely on board with this style of scent. Almond fragrances are the only type of nut perfumes I’ve enjoyed to any great extent. Rarely have I sampled a scent with hazelnut or pistachio and been convinced. However, I’m always willing to give anything a go and change my opinion. Today, I will discuss two scents from French designer Jacques Fath that use hazelnuts: Jasmin de Toscane and Vetiver Gris.
Both scents are by Jean-Christophe Hérault. Jasmin de Toscane, the most recent release, came out in 2023. I knew I was in for a struggle. Whenever hazelnut features in a fragrance, it dominates, turning scratchy and coarse on my skin. But if there’s any hazelnut in this jasmine fragrance, it’s thankfully lost on me. My momentary sense of relief soon turns to despair, though. Instead of harsh hazelnut, the jasmine note rules, turning cloyingly sweet. Combined with the unconvincing grapefruit note, it reduces Jasmin de Toscane to a wishy-washy mix of bubblegum and shampoo. I’m reminded of countless fruity florals that line the department store shelves, such as Prada Paradoxe and Armani My Way. In fairness to the brand, Jasmin de Toscane doesn’t retail for much more than the cost of one of these mass-market fragrances.
Rating: 4/10.
Vetiver Gris, on the other hand, is a much different proposition. Indeed, I favour vetiver as a note over a floral profile, so it had a clear advantage from the beginning. The hazelnut note stands out more in Vetiver Gris. And it’s scratchy, bristly, and rough as always. But it works well with vetiver, which inherently has a nutty quality. Vetiver Gris smells far from unique, taking several cues from Vetiver Tonka. Vetiver Gris doesn’t become quite as sweet as the Hermès, but it does exhibit a similar candied praline character as it progresses. Ultimately, the hazelnut becomes too obvious for my taste. Still, I enjoy some aspects here, notably the bitter hit of orange up front and the intense green smokiness of the galbanum during the middle phases.
Rating: 6/10.
Hazelnuts aren’t something I eat, either. I’d sooner snack on an almond or a cashew. To be sure, seeing them in a perfume note pyramid never fails to give me the jitters. Valentino Uomo might be the only exception. The smooth leather and buttery iris soften the blow of the crunchy gourmand accord in that scent. As for Jacques Fath, they offer several better scents than Jasmin de Toscane and Vetiver Gris, including Green Water and their other vetiver, Le Loden. Curiously, their 2024 release, Encens Copal, also features hazelnut. It may not be for me, but I’d love to try their much-lauded Iris de Fath.
Are there any hazelnut fragrances you enjoy?
Note: All images are my own. I purchased the samples used for this post.
Niche has gone nuts, Daniel. Great read!
I align with you on this point. Almond is a very successful nut of choice. There are many almond based perfumes to enjoy. I would also agree that pairing hazelnut with vetiver would be a wise choice, simply because of vetiver’s underlying nutty quality. Saint Honoré by Nicolaï would be a good example.
As for pistachios, you’ll have to decide whether you prefer plain or roasted. Many pistachio-based perfumes are sweet, like Faces of Francis by Vilhelm Parfumerie.
Thank you, Flaconneur. Yes, almonds are hard to beat. I tried those three gourmand fragrances from Nicolaï and didn’t really enjoy them. The rose/macaron one smelled like a Montale or a Mancera. I’ll have to try some more pistachio scents. I see there’s a new one called Pistachio Latte that’s received some hype. It sounds and looks like a bit of a nightmare to me. But, I shall reserve my judgement.
Now, I do like to eat hazelnuts, especially if milk chocolate is also involved. I’ve learned that I don’t like them so much in perfume after all. Filbertone is a powerful aromachemical, so I’m not surprised that it takes over if it’s present. I would also like to smell Iris de Fath.
Ah yes, when you put it that way I don’t mind hazelnut chocolate. Though, I don’t really have too much of a sweet tooth. Yes, it seems to be an elusive unicorn. A trip to Jovoy in Paris might be in order.
Great overview, I am curious to smell the new Jacques Fath scents!
Thanks very much, Tetê. They have a musk scent coming out later in the year that supposedly features a banana note.
Really? Banana seems to be a trend now. Nice!
Yes, it seems to have overtaken vanilla (for now). Quite a few perfumes from Esxence featured banana.
Banana scents? Not sure, though I do love me some bananary Ylang.
The only hazelnut I remember trying was PG Praline de Santal. It was sent as an extra along with Tonkamande when a bought a Discovery Set direct from PG. These two nutty confections were gifted with my purchase ( those were the days!)
I took the Praline with me to work in London for a few days. I felt nauseous by the time my train got into Kings Cross! Never again.
Tonkamande? I bought a bottle, so did DH as a gift he enjoyed it on me.
I’m with you on almonds.
Pistachio? I can neither taste nor smell them.
Yes, I’m not sure I’m on board with banana scents either. Though I did enjoy Sand from ånd fragrance released a couple of years ago. I can’t say I’ve tried too many others with a banana note, though. Oh dear that praline doesn’t sound good, but the tonka sounds like it might be worth a try.
Great to read your thoughts on these, dear Daniel. Elie Saab Girl of Now and L’Artisan Parfumeur Mechant Loup are two rather good nutty scents.
Thanks, Rich. Great selections. Mechant Loup is such an oddball of a scent. Something we don’t seen enough of today. It’s been years since I’ve sampled it.