Romano Ricci, the brains behind Juliette Has A Gun (JHAG), seems like such an interesting character. He’s one of the founders of Nose Paris and the great-grandson of Nina Ricci. In addition, he’s the grandson of the celebrated perfumer Robert Ricci (L’air du Temps). They’re impressive roots, to be sure, but his brand has never excited me, and none of the perfumes from JHAG have made any impression on me whatsoever. And I’ve always suspected they try too hard, emphasising being edgy and cool over producing a decent fragrance.
So, I always try something new from the house with some skepticism. But might their latest fragrance buck the trend? They’ve released a vetiver (Ex Vetiver), and I must always sample whenever that note is involved. As usual, the perfume comes accompanied by nonsensical marketing and imagery. In the advertisement for the scent, three guys chase a woman into a maze to discover her alluring perfume (Ex Vetiver – a feminine fragrance dedicated to men). But despite all signs pointing to the contrary, it turns out it’s a solid scent—indeed, a thumbs up from me.
The opening citrusy notes of bergamot and lemon set the scene and lay a verdant platform for the vetiver heart to take over. The brand lists three vetiver varieties (Haitian, Indonesian, and Indian) as part of the scent. With three types of vetiver in the breakdown, one might think we’re in for a nuanced ride showcasing all facets of vetiver. That doesn’t occur, as what we get here is primarily mineralic, clean, and streamlined.
The mineral element surely comes courtesy of Givaudan’s special Indian sand vetiver. https://parfumplusmag.com/article/givaudan-takes-vetiver-roots-back-to-their-native-country-india/ I’d love to get a breakdown showing the total percentage amount of each vetiver the brand used in the composition. Besides the mineral nuances, I pick a slightly nutty aspect from the vetiver notes. Yet, even though Ex Vetiver doesn’t showcase the full spectrum of vetiver’s potential (there’s no smokiness, earthiness, or dampness), I still can’t help but enjoy wearing the perfume. Indeed, I’ve turned to my sample multiple times over the last week.
Ex Vetiver finishes in the customary JHAG way on a bed of musks and Ambroxan. I’d compare the perfume with Byredo’s Bal d’Afrique and, to a lesser extent, but due to that slight nutty aspect, Vétiver Tonka from Hermès. If you’re a fan of Byredo, you’ll almost certainly enjoy Ex Vetiver. Indeed, it’s a pleasant surprise, though, in the vast field of vetiver perfumes, it won’t displace the likes of Sycomore and Guerlain’s Vetiver from the top of the grassy pile.
How do you feel about the brand? Does Ex Vetiver sound like something you may enjoy?
Note: All images are my own. I purchased the sample of Ex Vetiver.