First Impressions – Parfum d’Empire – Un Bel Amour D’été – One of the best modern noses, Marc Antoine Corticchiato of Parfum d’Empire fame is back with a new perfume. I own one fragrance from the house, Cuir Ottoman, but several others hover on the to-buy radar. Indeed, I can always count on the brand to give us something interesting. Their latest, Un Bel Amour D’été, is no different. Un Bel Amour D’été smells like a perfume that straddles eras. On one hand, it smells like a modern “solar” scent. Though, at other moments, it sends me off into a bygone period.
Un Bel Amour D’été is primarily a floral perfume with several floral notes oscillating in and out during its development. White florals such as gardenia, magnolia, jasmine, and perhaps even tuberose combine with ylang-ylang and champaca to paint a picture of a sun-drenched tropical landscape. Gardenia becomes the most prominent on my skin. The white florals give the perfume an almost waxy, milky, balmy quality without bringing coconut or cheap sunscreen associations to mind. The remaining florals of ylang-ylang and champaca enhance this lactonic effect.
It’s all well and good and perfectly nice smelling. Had Corticchiato left Un Bel Amour D’été as a simple solar floral, it might have filled the space that the Tom Ford Soleil perfumes currently occupy. But Parfum d’Empire creations are never so bland and never so overtly commercial. The real kicker here is the injection of spice.
Cumin and maybe turmeric (I’m not sure I pick up this as much) add a disruptive or unsettling aspect to the wear. Their inclusion (well, the presence of cumin mostly) separates the perfume from modern screechy solar perfumes and makes me think of something more classical. Perhaps there’s even a touch of civet here, too. It’s a brilliant addition by a brilliant perfumer. Even though none of the spices feel overdosed or forced, their sweaty, fleshy effect is noticeable. Without the spice, the perfume would feel flat and less faceted, but instead, it feels intricate and alive. And rather than cheap sunscreen, we get a flower bouquet mixed with humid beach air, subtle hints of clammy skin, and sun.
As all the floral/spicy elements combine, the dry down becomes a buttery, smooth mix of sandalwood and vanilla. If you’re a fan of Goutal Songes, Boutonniere No. 7 by Arquiste, or even Solaris from Penhaligons, Un Bel Amour D’été will be something you enjoy. I’m wearing this in the drier, cooler months here, but it surely would come alive in the high humidity. Inevitably, Parfum d’Empire’s releases are a highlight of the year, and Un Bel Amour D’été seems to be another winner from the brand.
Have you tried this perfume? Do you like Parfum d’Empire creations? They’re a brand worth exploring.
All photos are my own except the bottle image (Google). I was given my sample as a gift with purchase.
