It’s always an event when Chanel releases a new perfume. And it’s even more of an event when that release forms part of their higher-end Les Exclusifs collection. Indeed, it’s been some time since their last offering, the smouldering amber Le Lion, hit the shelves. Undoubtedly, that perfume was a departure from the powdery iris-centric theme that had become a signature of the Les Exclusifs line. With Comète, Olivier Polge brings us somewhat, but not entirely, back into the trademark powdery Chanel universe.
Everything about Comète feels relatively contemporary, weightless, and well-balanced. It’s not what I would describe as ethereal, but none of Comète’s notes overwhelm. Even the opening burst of Chanel’s patented aldehydes smells modern, flickering and flashing in the air and on the skin. Alongside the aldehydes runs a cherry blossom accord. Its almond-soft floral facets become a fixture in Comète’s development. Heliotrope and iris partner up, controlling the middle stages, underscoring the powdery, pillowy core of this Les Exclusifs.
There’s undoubtedly a makeup and cosmetic element to the iris in Comète. Although violet isn’t listed in the pyramid, I think the floral may play a part in Comète’s fabric. But, despite this powder puff of florals, Comète doesn’t become suffocating to wear. Instead, Comète remains airy and eminently wearable. As I alluded to, heliotrope, with its cherry and almond dimensions, competes with the powdery iris for supremacy. On my skin, I think the iris prevails.
Both notes persist into the musky dry down, leaving a vanillic, powdery trail in their wake. There’s almost something edible, sugary, marshmallow-like, dare I say Guerlainesque about the confluence of notes in the dry down that doesn’t feel quintessentially Chanel. The cozy, cocooning, musky dry down also brings to mind the fabulous Musc des Sables from Les Indémodables. On the other hand, some of Comète’s elements remind me of Chanel luminaries such as No.5, La Pausa, 1957, Rue Cambon, and Misia.
Comète’s lack of density works in its favour, and it’s a million miles away from their previous release, Le Lion. Comète retains a delicate feel throughout, with pastel-like colour grading to the notes. When wearing Comete, I think of various colours, including shades of pink and purple, before it fades to white. Comète lasted 6-8 hours before burning out. I find it to be a quality addition to the Les Exclusifs line. I’m sure it will sell well for the brand, even as the prices for this line rapidly shoot skyward.
Have you tried this latest Chanel? Did you find it similar to others in the line? What are your Exclusifs of choice? Mine are still Sycomore, Bel Respiro, and Boy.
Note: All photos are my own except the image of the Comète bottle, courtesy of Google. I tested Comète a couple of times in the Chanel boutique.
