Perfume Review – Cartier – Eau de Cartier – Violet Leaf Cologne – 8/10.
Eau de Cartier might always have been doomed to discontinuation. Cartier’s suite of scents and Christine Nagel (the perfumer behind Eau de Cartier) are two of the most underrated entities in fragrance. For whatever reason, the brand’s and the perfumer’s wares never seem to receive the recognition they deserve. As a result, sales suffer, leading to certain under-the-radar perfumes and underperforming compositions being pulled from shelves.
Indeed, the luxury jeweler has produced some interesting modern-day compositions, particularly on the masculine side. For example, Roadster’s weird vanilla and mint union and L’Envol’s off-beat blend of powdery honeyed woods marched to the beat of their drum, shunning trends, giving the masculine marketed perfume segment a much-needed nudge in a bolder artistic direction. But there’s always a risk with such a daring commercial strategy.
Some of these compositions are so unconventional that they struggle to strike a chord with fragrance lovers. However, I applaud the brand for its bravery and foresight. Are they perfumes that are ahead of their time? Who knows? It’s hard to gauge these things, as the brand discontinues scents before they have a chance to take a foothold, never reaching more than a cult following.
They were not ahead of the times with Eau de Cartier, though. Dropping in 2001, I’d argue they were a little late to the party with a unisex-marketed scent that might or might not have been released to ride on the coattails of the success of Calvin Klein’s megahit CK One. Sadly, it suffered the same fate as many a Cartier release and has gone the way of the Dodo. I’ve seen rumblings on some fragrance forums that Cartier might return it. Fingers crossed.
Eau de Cartier smells like a fresh contender to the clean crown CK One claimed in the mid-90s. It’s far from a dupe, though. Still, it is one of the best laundry fresh scents money can buy. That might not seem like a ringing endorsement for a perfume, but it truly smells intriguing for something in this much-maligned genre. It opens on a bright, spicy, citrusy accord of yuzu and coriander. A peppery, tart, zesty, cool aspect to the yuzu sets it apart from other citrus accords and thus sets Eau de Cartier apart from other comparative fresh compositions of a similar vintage and theme.
The heart notes of Eau de Cartier rotate around violet and violet leaves. The violet here plays a minor role compared to the violet leaf. Still, it provides a noticeable powdery influence without entering Parma violet territory. Thankfully, given my taste, the violet leaf holds more sway. It’s green, verdant, woody, fresh, and ozonic—one of the best violet leaf accords I’ve tried. The grassy sweetness that punctuates the middle stages of Eau de Cartier bears testament to its impact. The lavender, like the violet, feels subordinate to the violet leaf, but it adds to the crisp, clear, airy vibe of Eau de Cartier.
Eau de Cartier rests on an anchor of bubbly, soapy musks, cedary material (almost certainly some iso e super), amber, and clean, earthy patchouli. Through it all, the ozonic freshness of the violet leaf never wavers. Adjectives like foamy, fluffy, feather-like, wispy, crystalline, and uncluttered come to mind when I think of descriptors for Eau de Cartier. However, despite its laundry-fresh tendencies, I never think of it as generic or boring. And even with its clean facets, I never see it shaded in white. The yuzu and violet leaf give it colour and a distinct signature character. Dare I say it’s a real gem in the Cartier line? Let’s hope it gets the due it deserves if they bring it back.
Quick Notes:
Launch Year: 2001.
Perfumer(s): Christine Nagel.
Top Notes: Yuzu, bergamot, coriander.
Mid Notes: Violet Leaf, violet, lavender.
Base Notes: Musks, cedar, patchouli, amber.
Longevity: 6-8 hours.
Projection: 2 hours, soft.
Seasons: Spring and summer. However, it works all year round.
Alternatives: Calvin Klein CK One, Cartier Eau de Cartier Concentree, Burberry Touch for Men.
Note: All pictures are my own. Bottle purchased by me.
