F is for Frédéric as in Frédéric Malle, and it was another f-word I muttered when I heard that one of the leading figures in modern perfumery was stepping away from his brand for good in June. I can’t, or perhaps I refuse to believe he is completely stepping away from perfume altogether. I doubt he will ride off into the distance, à la Clint Eastwood in High Plains Drifter. I’m sure the creative juices are still flowing. And at only age 61, perhaps we’ll see him in a new role where he can work independently and freely, away from the constraints of Estée Lauder.
But if not, happy retirement! He’s accomplished so much. Indeed, as the self-proclaimed editor or publisher behind his eponymous brand, there’s been a great deal to admire and enjoy. Even in the last few years, the brand’s output was reasonably strong. Perfumes such as Rose & Cuir and Synthetic Jungle maintained the quality of earlier releases. I shudder to think about what will happen to the house now. The perfumes aside, the brand was one of the first (if not the first?) houses to display/recognise the perfumers’ names on the bottles. I’m wearing the galbanum green of French Lover today to pay homage to one of the fragrance industry’s most influential characters from the last 25 years.
Note: All the pictures are my own.
I guess he is leaving while the song is still playing at the party. The good days seem to be over for the brand. I heard the new release is disappointing, so I am not rushing to try it.
Yes you’re right, Tetê. I haven’t tried the collaboration with Acne Studios yet, but the previous release Heaven Can Wait I didn’t enjoy. I refuse to believe his swansong to the perfume industry will be a collab with a clothing brand, though. Hopefully we see him again somewhere down the line in a position where he has more creative control.
Yes, it was a bit of a shock to see that. Did you try the new fragrance finder on the FM website? Things have changed…
Yes, I did. And I was hoping for Musc Ravageur, but it suggested the citrus, vetiver and the geranium. Sounds like I need to be more rebellious in my underwear choices. Haha! In all seriousness though, I found the quiz a little cheesy, and somehow not in fitting with the brand’s sophisticated aesthetic. Did you try it?
Ha! Exactly. I tried it and the suggestions that came back were nowhere near the ones I like from the brand.
Frédéric Malle is a bit of a legend. As the grandson of Parfums Christian Dior founder Serge Heftler-Louiche, his was a hard act to follow. As some of you know, I had the chance to meet, and speak at length, with Malle at a Barneys New York event many years back. He was very knowledgeable and friendly. Knowing who he was, he never made me feel uncomfortable, and made our interaction casual and relaxing, like we were old friends. I feel lucky to have met him. At some point in everyone’s life, you have to choose your stopping point. In my honest opinion, this is a perfect time for him to step away. Perhaps do something more challenging, more personal. Whatever he chooses to do, I wish him much health and happiness.
Yes, that must have been wonderful to meet him, Flaconneur. And just as wonderful that he was a friendly and humble person. I agree, it’s a good time to step away and do something more fulfilling.
Not enough can be said about the influence and approach of this man and his brand. Wonderful homage, dear Daniel. Let’s see what happens next….
Thanks, Rich. Indeed, he is a true pioneer.