If there ever were a brand I’d love to see back on top of the fragrance game, it would be Dior. Recent years have seen a marked decline in quality at the house. By a decline in quality, I’m talking specifically about their fragrance arm and what I perceive to be a need for more creativity in their releases. They’ve slipped down the fragrance pecking order well below the likes of Chanel and Guerlain. And since Francis Kurkdjian took over as the in-house perfumer, the brand has been spinning its wheels.
What’s Kurkdjian given us so far? Well, a few re-releases in the higher-end collection (Eau Noire, Cologne Blanche & Bois d’Argent), a shampoo-like J’Adore flanker, and very little else. And, I wouldn’t call those perfumes Kurkdjian redid as part of the La Collection Privée new. Eau Noire is now a watered-down shell of its former self. So, if you disregard these re-releases, it’s virtually nothing. There’s a new version of New Look on the market at the time of writing. I’m yet to try it. Initial reviews aren’t good, though. The only other fragrance I can think of is Dioriviera (the one actual original release), a nice freshie but hardly the sort of thing I’d be shelling out big bucks for.
Francis Kurkdjian took the reins in 2021. That’s an eternity in this day and age in the perfume game. There’s probably been 5000+ new fragrances in that time, but no new men’s or women’s pillars from Dior. Doesn’t he want to make a mark and imprint his signature on the brand? Perhaps it’s good that they’re taking their time with the new pillar releases. Might they wow us with something extraordinary? I used to look forward to the days of something new from the house. But now I go in with such low expectations that I’m no longer disappointed when I smell something banal.
I’m confident Dior can do it if they want. The track record is there. They’ve given us some classics over the years. One example is the diesel-fueled Fahrenheit from the 80s. I still have a bottle (circa 2010 vintage) and seem in the minority, but I like the current formulation. Others, like 2005’s Dior Homme, changed the face of masculine perfumery. And the line came with some fabulous flankers, not least the 2008 version of Dior Homme Sport. I’ve bought backups of these perfumes over the years, but I wouldn’t consider buying any Dior Homme fragrances in their current state.
On the women’s side, the brand gave us one of the most memorable scents of all time in Poison. And, it, in turn, spawned many flankers. In the early 90s, Dune ruled. It is still in reasonable shape in its current formulation, I think. In the late 90s, the dewy, fruity, floral freshness of J’Adore became a hit. Going back in time, how could we forget the innovative Edmond Roudnitska and his classics, Diorissimo and Diorella?
Their higher-end collection used to be one of the standard bearers with perfumes such as Leather Oud, the original Eau Noire, Mitzah, Vetiver, and my favorite, Ambre Nuit, a match for the likes of Chanel, Hermes, and Guerlain. However, its dilution into a vague, watery mix of fruity florals that smell like something that should be much cheaper is saddening. As mentioned above, I’ve yet to try their latest New Look. Its amalgam of incense and aldehydes sounds interesting on paper, but the proof will be in the pudding.
So, Monsieur Kurkdjian and Dior, it’s time for something new and innovative – a new look, as it were, to put it into Dior terms. Part of the issue is that the cash registers at the Dior beauty counters are ticking over just fine, as most people seem to love Sauvage and Joy. So, why should the brand change it up? It’s a business, and the brand’s bottom line is thriving by playing it safe. But surely the success of those hits can be used as a springboard to give us perfume freaks something more interesting to sink our teeth and noses into. I won’t be holding my breath, though.
Do you enjoy any of Dior’s latest perfumes? I think the last thing I purchased from Dior was over six years ago! Are there any brands you hope can pull themselves out of the doldrums and release something engaging/more creative in 2024?
All the pictures are my own.
Great article! I love their classics from the 90s. The new “New Look” was a huge disappointment to me: bubble bath opening to a dupe of Chanel 5.
Thank you very much, Tetê! Yes, their 90s releases were brilliant. Haha, oh no, that doesn’t sound very good or original. I don’t think I’ll be racing out to try the New Look.
Every time I read something like this, I selfishly breathe a sigh of relief that it’s one less thing I feel I need to chase. The only Dior fragrance I own is a vintage stopper bottle of Poison that I bought at an antique store a few years ago. I am loving their skincare products, though – the Capture Totale series in particular.
Yes, I know what you mean. Wow, treasure that vintage of Poison! I’m not too familiar with their skincare products, but I did own shower gels and deodorants of their Dior Homme Sport at one point.
Great post, Daniel. Beautiful photos as always. Thank you!
What I think is important to remember here is that while Kurkdjian is currently the “creation director” of Dior, he still has his own brand to consider. When I first saw this news about Kurkdjian and Dior, I felt that there was going to be a very minuscule influence on the part of Kurkdjian. This is regrettable at best, since he is an amazing talent. I really don’t think that he is going to give all of himself to Dior in any way, shape or form. This is the primary reason that I just felt that Kurkdjian and Dior was a mistake.
Is Dior at a point that they’re looking for someone with expression and talent the likes of Kurkdjian to infuse life into a somewhat deceased brand? If that’s the case, they either need to put their big boy pants on and face the music, or be content with what they get from Kurkdjian, or any other truly talented perfumer they might catch along the way. This seems a marriage of convenience. The fragrance portion of Dior is simply an accessory in their fashion assemblage.
Thank you, Flaconneur! You make some excellent points. I agree with everything you’ve written. It does seem likely we may never get anything interesting out of this partnership. I did hear on the grapevine that there may be a Fahrenheit Elixir coming. I’m not sure what to make of it, but I’m sure I’ll try it when it arrives.
I was such a Dior fan girl from the late 70’s right up until J’Adore & Addict.
Diorella is in my all time top 10.
I own every iteration of Poison from cologne to parfum, yes even a modernish bottle. My Diorissimo parfum only gets worn once a year though I will never part with her. On DH trip to celebrate his treatment working I asked for Dune. As you say it’s still Dune. You get the picture. Dior was my house.
Now the flag bearers are treated with a lack of care. Whilst they started the idea of flankers, they are now simply confusing. Miss Dior? Which one? All patchbombs of the worst kind.
I had hoped that FK would sort out this confusing mishmash but it seems not.
Monsieur Dior must be spinning in horror
So many classics, Alityke. It’s a shame what’s transpired over recent years. Miss Dior’s had so many facelifts it’s unrecognisable. It doesn’t seem Francis Kurkdjian has much to add, as I think I saw there’s another Miss Dior flanker about to hit the shelves.