I’m in no particular rush to keep up with the new releases from Dior. Quite frankly, the brand has slipped markedly in my designer pecking order. And I’ve not been impressed by a new perfume from the brand in quite some years. That includes their Maison Christian Dior higher-end/higher-priced range. The line usually sees one or two new releases yearly. However, last year, their newly appointed in-house perfumer Francis Kurkdjian rereleased three older scents, Cologne Blanche, Eau Noire, and Bois D’Argent. This year, Dioriviera joined the fold. I’ve yet to try Dioriviera or any of the rejigged fragrances.
Today’s first impressions post relates to two fragrances from Francois Demachy’s time in 2021, Tobacolor and Eden-Roc. My remarks will be brief on both, as they failed to impress. Indeed, both fall flat and fizzle, merely reaffirming my stance to approach any new Dior perfume with scepticism and caution. I’m not sure the presence of Captain Kurk at the helm will make much difference.
First Impressions – Dior – Tobacolor – My tolerance for sweet fragrances is low. But, my tolerance for this honeyed tobacco monstrosity is even lower. I felt like I needed to visit the dentist after wearing this tooth-achingly sweet scrubber. It surely has to go down as one of the worst scents in this line. Honey and plums rule most of the composition, covering everything in a goopy mess. The tobacco note is harsh, bordering on stale cigarette smoke. Hideous. For this sort of thing, stick with Or du Sérail from Naomi Goodsir or Ambre Narguile from Hermes.
First Impressions – Dior – Eden Roc – This Dior takes inspiration from a sun-soaked hotel on the French Riviera. Indeed, it has some of the DNA of Dior classics like Diorella and Diorissimo. But whereas they have an easy breezy nonchalance, Eden Roc ends up screechy and metallic. The usual summer suspects, such as citrus, jasmine, and sea salt, combine to create the “beach” effect. However, it ends up a little more like shampoo to my nose. Sadly though, sharp mineral notes and pine permeate the heart of the scent, forging an unpleasant silvery alliance. I’m thinking of household cleaning products, not luxury resorts, at this point.
Unfortunately, this play on a hotel turns into less of a trip to the Cap d’Antibes and more of an ill-fated stay at Fawlty Towers. However, it’s much less humorous than Basil and the gang. I’d cut my holiday short and ask for an early checkout if Eden-Roc dished up this sort of hospitality.
Have you had the misfortune of trying these two from Dior? Any favourites from the line?
Note: All images are my own. Fragrances tested from decants I purchased.
