Amouage – Guidance – Amouage is back with four new scents titled “The Odyessy Collection – Chapter 3 – Escape”. All four feature frankincense and are accompanied by the usual nonsensical marketing mumbo jumbo. Overall, it’s a stronger collection than the previous ones under their new creative director, Renaud Salmon. Still, that wouldn’t be difficult. In today’s blog post, I’ll discuss the perfume that drew the most visceral reaction in me out of the four, Guidance, the Quentin Bisch composition.
At its heart, Guidance is a woody, fruity floral with a few interesting accompaniments, both good and bad. The opening is strong, nutty, and fruity. I can’t say I’m a huge fan of hazelnut accords in perfumery, as I always find them raspy and scratchy. Unfortunately, the hazelnut that appears in the opening accord of Guidance doesn’t change my mind. Alongside the hazelnut is a fruity pear aspect which is cloying, sweet, and overbearing. As I mentioned, each of the four new perfumes contains incense, but it’s only a bit-part player in Guidance.
As it progresses into the heart, Guidance unveils a floral bouquet. Rose, jasmine, and osmanthus begin to dominate. The osmanthus, in particular, becomes strong on my skin. In Guidance, the osmanthus accentuates the flower’s apricot-like nuances more than its leather ones. All the florals join forces with the pear from the opening, evoking bubblegum. Saccharine and persistent, Guidance is by no means a wallflower.
Anchored by a base of sandalwood and vanilla, Guidance takes on an almost creamy guise. It’s the most enjoyable aspect of the perfume. The lotion-like smoothness of the merger is well-judged. However, Quentin Bisch’s love of synthetic Akigalawood and ambery woody material somewhat dampens the smoothness. Fortunately, he doesn’t overdose on Akigalawood like in other perfumes, such as Ganymede. Amouage lists ambergris in the base, but I doubt there is any genuine ambergris here. They don’t use real ambergris in Ashore, so I assume it’s a similar setup with Guidance. However, I could be wrong.
Guidance is easily the most mass appealing of the four new Amouage perfumes. And, in terms of gender norms, it’s also the most feminine. However, it isn’t the most novel perfume. Bisch has done this sort of thing before. Although not a carbon copy, Delina from Parfums de Marly is similar. And the hazelnut effect Bisch created in Mugler’s Angel Muse is replicated to a degree in Guidance. But, ultimately, Guidance is way too sweet for my taste. The toothachingly jarring union of pears, apricots, and flowers becomes intolerable. Couple that with its enormous sillage and longevity (easily 16-plus hours), and it’s something I could never wear.
Undoubtedly Guidance will find many fans. Room-filling fruity florals like this often do. If it were me, I’d have upped the sandalwood and incense, tamed the sweetness of the fruits, and replaced the hazelnut with almond. But, of course, then it would be a completely different scent. You can’t please everyone. There’s no way I’d pay $499AUD for the composition in its current incarnation.
What do you think of the commercial direction Amouage is taking? Have you tried Guidance?
Note: All flower photos are my own, taken in my garden. Guidance tested from an official Amouage sample I received from a store.
The hyped pink bottle of Amouage didn’t impress me either. I would never pay the price they charge, and don’t wish for it, even if it wasn’t expensive. I found it boring and yes, Delina came to my mind. Perfumers who repeat their formula in different brands is quite annoying. The overly expensive YSL Babycat has been done by the same perfumers in 2 other brands ( one is Amouage btw). Tks for your honest review, and wonderful pictures!
Thanks very much, Tetê. I’m glad you agree. I sprayed Guidance on a card and it’s so sweet and long lasting. In the end, I had to throw the card away as everything was starting to smell like it. And for sure, Quentin Bisch seems to do this quite a bit. I agree with you about Babycat. It’s very similar to the Vanagloria perfume that came out the previous year. I’ve not sampled the Amouage attar that it is compared with though.
Oh dear. How I yearn for the time when Amouage released just a pair of fragrances at a time. The anticipation they created in Fragcom was buzzing. The silver frankincense such an integral part of the Amouage DNA.
Just the thought of Gold, Lyric, Dia, Ubar, Jubilation, Epic & Memoir gives me a shiver, such was their beauty & distinct difference from the rest of the market.
I have never been tempted by any of the new releases since the release of the Interludes.
Lyric Woman is my treasured ride or die rose & Amouage
Yes, they were one of the pre-eminent niche brands, and every release was an event. Sadly not so much any more. Times have changed. I still find certain aspects I enjoy from their latest releases, but none are quite full bottle worthy. Especially at the price point.
I haven’t sampled this Amouage nor do I plan to. Price of full bottle beyond my budget. The flowers in your garden is what impresses me the most! Simply glorious!
Thanks very much, Brigitte. Yes, I think the prices are crazy on these new Amouage scents.
I haven’t tried Guidance yet, but will definitely do so when I see it. I’m enjoying the unisex direction the brand is taking, though. Insightful review and magnificent pics, dear Daniel.
Thanks, Rich. Hope you enjoy it when you get a chance to try it.
I would love Amouage to go back to their classic aesthetic, but I realize that it’s not happening. I will try these new ones when I get a chance, but with their prices, maybe it’s not such a bad thing that I don’t like most of their new creations? 😉
Yes, they’ve moved on from their older style and I guess they can’t please everybody. I just wish their prices weren’t so crazy high though.