In retrospect, 2022 was a particularly active year for new fig fragrances. So many brands got figgy wit it and attempted to capture the essence of the sweet fruit in perfume form. I tried quite a few, and I’ll detail my thoughts on four of them in today’s post.
The first cab of the rank is Beso Beach Perfumes and their Beso Pasión. I was not too fond of this one. It has so much of the Givaudan synthetic Akigalawood (fractioned from patchouli oil) in the base that I thought it must have been a Quentin Bisch composition. He uses it regularly in his perfumes. Turns out it’s by Jordi Fernández. As soon as I spray, I can only smell the synthetics. There’s almost certainly a hefty dose of Iso E Super in this one too. The fig note is sticky and sweet and quite overwhelming. And combined with the long-lasting synthetics, it becomes a bit of a challenge to wear.
Figuier Noir from Houbigant Paris treads a similar sweet path to the Beso Beach. There’s a candy-like, syrupy sappiness to the fig note. And undoubtedly, it’s coupled with some woody ambery material in the base. However, some floral notes (jasmine, iris) in the middle phases soften things a little. And the earthy green woodiness feels slightly more natural than the Beso Beach fig. Celina Ellena composed the perfume. Again, not for me.
Une Figue by Obvious steers us towards the ocean. The fig here is built around herbal and marine facets. Unfortunately, the salty aspect is too overplayed for my liking. And when coupled with the synthetic base, it’s yet another swing and a miss.
Three strikes, and you’re out for the fig fragrances so far. But, I had one more fig to try, Fig Infusion by Essential Parfums. Nathalie Lorson does a lovely job with this one. The fig is complemented beautifully by juicy citrus and an interesting dark tea note. The tea note is smoky but more of a veil than a blanket of choking fumes. Creamy sandalwood provides depth and body. And rounding everything out is a honeyed vanillic facet where benzoin and orange blossom combine to infuse warmth. I almost put it on my top list from last year, but it loses a bit of puff toward the dry down. It’s the least fig-forward of the four perfumes. However, Fig Infusion still gets a thumbs up.
However, nothing compares to the top two figs in my collection. It’s hard to see anything matching the two Olivia Giacobetti classics, Premier Figuier and Philosykos. The L’Artisan, to my nose, is slightly milkier and greener than the woodier Diptyque. The foremost figs for this fanatical fumehead.
What are your top fig scents?
Note: All fragrances tested from samples I purchased. All pictures of Philosykos and Premier Figuier are my own.
Hi Daniel,
I don’t own a single fig forward fragrance! Your piece probably tells me why. They are difficult to do well.
As neither PF or Phylosikos have ever tempted me to buy them, it seems others are unlikely to impress.
Thanks for the heads up
Indeed they are. They always seem to end up too sweet and artificial.
Agree; most of them do. I even found PF (Extreme) and Philosykos too sweet sometimes, although I admire them. My favorite so far is from Olfactory NYC, called Leo, which also has suede and cedar notes. Also love Annick Goutal Ninfeo Mio. NVC Ashoka is beautiful too (I’ve sampled it a couple of times).
I’ve liked most of Essential Parfums’ offerings so am glad you liked Fig Infusion, even if it’s not very figgy – I’ll have to try it when I get a chance.
Yes, it’s not my favourite note. I’ve liked all the Neela Vermeire Creations I’ve tried including Ashoka. I’ll have to sample your other recommendations. Hope you enjoy Fig Infusion.
Great overview! I haven’t tried the Beso Beach one yet though.
Thanks very much, Tetê. It’s quite a sweet one, and with a heavy dose of akigalawood. If you do try it, I would be intrigued to know your thoughts.
Pacifica Mediterranean Fig was always my favorite! Cheap as chips but sadly discontinued.
Ah I never got to try that scent. All the good ones seem to get discontinued.