Dominque Ropion’s three floral scents for Olfactive Studio’s Sepia Collection are well-constructed compositions. I enjoy them more than Leather, Vanilla, and Chypre Shot by Bertrand Duchaufour. Though, Vanilla Shot was more enjoyable when I revisited it recently. Rose, Iris, and Violet Shot were released a couple of years ago, and there’s one clear standout for mine. Below are my thoughts on each.
Olfactive Studio – Rose Shot – Fresh Rose – 6.5/10.
Rose Shot is a semi-chypre perfume that opens on a fizzy fresh accord of bergamot, pink pepper, and elemi. The rose is immediately discernible. It’s fresh and dewy, bright and easy to wear. But, unfortunately, there’s little to write home about in the early phases here other than the slightly piney aspect generated by elemi.
The most interesting aspect of the entire fragrance comes after about 20 minutes. At this point, the combined effects of white florals create a slightly milky, creamy facet. These florals, perhaps gardenia and magnolia, don’t bear their claws too ferociously. However, they do lend a slight edge to what might have otherwise been a standard run-of-the-mill fresh rose fragrance.
Still, it’s a largely forgettable perfume. Indeed, the weakest of the floral trio by Ropion. Rose Shot won’t go down as one of his better rose perfumes. The mossy, smoky, woody base ultimately proves insubstantial, leaving me wishing for a more memorable punchy finish with greater impetus.
Olfactive Studio – Iris Shot – Semi Gourmand Iris – 6.5/10.
The preliminary notes in Iris Shot rush by, consumed by a wave of clean, soapy aldehydes. Next, there’s a fruity green slant thanks to cassis and a slightly spicy hint of cardamom. But neither the green nor spicy aspects last too long on my skin. Nor do the aldehydes. Instead, Iris Shot races to its middle phase showcasing its hero note against a semi-gourmand backdrop.
After about 5 minutes, Iris Shot reminds me of a cross between Masque Milano’s Lost Alice and Carner Barcelona’s D600. Like, Lost Alice, there’s a cake-like feel courtesy of carrot seeds. The moderately bitter, creamy almond further adds to the gourmand characteristics of Iris Shot. The chalky, woody iris feels modern, much like Carner’s D600. Although Iris Shot is more powdery than D600, it still doesn’t feel old-fashioned. And indeed, it doesn’t conjure up images of lipstick or cosmetics as much as something like Dior Homme.
Still, I like all those perfumes better than Iris Shot because, again, much like Rose Shot, it lacks enough distinctiveness in the dry down to make it memorable. Instead, Iris Shot descends into a musky, woody haze of Ambroxan and pencil-shaving cedar notes.
Olfactive Studio – Violet Shot – Suede & Violets, The Clear Standout – 8/10.
And finally, we have a winner—Violet Shot steps to the top of the podium. The merging of fresh-cut green grass, tangerine, and the ubiquitous pink pepper creates an invigorating prelude to its purple heart.
Dominque Ropion uses violet leaf, violet, and Safraleine (which smells like suede leather) in the main body of Violet Shot. When I think of perfumes that combine violet leaf and leather, I always think of Dior Fahrenheit. However, Violet Shot’s leather is softer and less harsh – more reminiscent of a new handbag than a well-worn biker jacket. Without a doubt, the clever use of the suede-like Safraleine aids in softening everything.
I pick up more violet flowers than violet leaves in Violet Shot. Indeed, there’s more of that powdered candied sweet trait redolent of violet flower than the ozonic freshness or even gasoline quality one expects from an overdose of violet leaf. Still, both are noticeable, and it’s an interesting combination.
Most importantly, however, there’s a dry down with some bite and character. The vanilla bean merges wonderfully well with the candied sweetness of the violet. The green aspect of freshly cut grass from the opening lasts through to the end and combines with patchouli to act as an earthy counterpoint to the vanilla and violets. All in all, lovely stuff.
So, Violet Shot is the clear winner. Everything comes together in that one to create a coherent enjoyable whole. It provides the most rewarding wear. However, none of these “Sepia” scents, even the first three, are bad. To be sure, all six are worth a shot (pun intended).
What’s your favourite from this collection?
Bottle images from Google. All the flower images are my own.