Reviews – Miller et Bertaux – Indian Study

Miller et Bertaux – Indian Study/Santal +++ : Introspective Woods – 8/10.

Hands up, who’s heard of this brand? Not many, I’m pretty sure. The French designer brand seems to lie low. They do seem to show up at quite a few trade shows (Esxence), for example, but they appear to have a relatively low profile on social media. In that regard, they’re no Matiere Premiere or Parfums de Marly. Indeed, I believe they’re one of the industry’s kept secrets.

The brand’s genesis can be traced back to Paris in the mid-1980s when Francis Miller and Patrick Bertaux opened a boutique in the Marais to sell their clothes and other wares. However, it wasn’t until 2006 that the brand established a perfume line. The initial collection of three perfumes now numbers eighteen. Each one is worth a sample. In particular, they handle woods and spices interestingly and intriguingly. Several highlights from the collection include the ambery, spicy in, and the citric green freshness of New Study (Postcard). I own both, but today’s review is for the other bottle I own from the brand, Indian Study.

The official name for the perfume is Indian Study/Santal+++. I’ll refer to it as Indian Study for the rest of this review. To be sure, it delivers on the promise of sandalwood. “Sandalwood at its peak,” as the brand describes. I’d almost go so far as to call it a pure sandalwood scent. But that wouldn’t be entirely correct. There are other subtle nuances at play. All of which adds to the fascination and attraction of Indian Study.

The Santal+++ component of the Indian Study name is derived from 3 woody elements. These include sandalwood, amyris bark, and massoia woods. Sandalwood is the most discernable of these elements. The sandalwood variety used in Indian Study is the Mysore variety. And to that end, it feels very high quality from the outset. The sandalwood in Indian Study is dusty as if you’ve stepped into a carpentry workshop, and the smell of wood shavings lingers in the air. However, there’s a quiet, reflective feel to proceedings. Nothing feels out of place, and order is always maintained. This perfume never shouts.

The Amyris bark and massoia bring in their subtle nuances. The amyris is pine-like and injects freshness into the mix. Massoia adds a milky lactonic element, maybe a touch of coconut. However, it never strays into the territory of Stash by Sarah Jessica Parker with its marked massoia accord. That scent is heavier and darker. Indian Study is much lighter. Perhaps it shares more in common with the light Hermessence scent, Santal Massoia. However, that one is decidedly milkier.

Santal Massoia has a dried fruit accord, which isn’t evident in the Miller et Bertaux. There’s very little sweetness in Indian Study. The reference to Indian Study in the name pertains to the inclusion of cumin and curry tree notes in the pyramid. I pick up both during the development of the scent. Don’t worry, though. Neither will make you smell like a beef vindaloo or rogan josh. Instead, they build a warm spicy layer that complements the dusty dryness of the sandalwood accord. Instead of straying into “foody” territory, this spicy facet of Indian Study smells like a refreshing, fragrant tea.

Miller et Bertaux list a varnish accord as one of the components of Indian Study. I do indeed smell it. Perhaps, it’s why I think of woodwork when I smell it. Interestingly, one of the inspirations for the fragrance is the varnished wood of an Indian musical instrument. The woody trail of Indian Study eventually fades into a cloud of comforting cocooning musks.

Some online reviews describe the scent of Indian Study as highly evocative of old books and libraries. Indeed, they’re on the money. When wearing this perfume, there’s a real sense of being in a dusty old library (perhaps with freshly sanded floors) surrounded by the smell of books. Indian Study is a scent for quiet introspection. Maybe Indian Study will be too subtle for some. But I think it’s at least worth a sample if you love sandalwood perfumes.

Do you have a favourite from this brand? How about a favourite sandalwood?

Quick Notes:

Launch Year: 2017.

Perfumer: Vincent Ricord.

Top Notes: Mysore sandalwood, amyris, massoia.

Mid Notes: Cumin, curry.

Base Notes: Varnish accord, musks.

Longevity: 6-8 hours.

Projection: 2 hours, low.

Season: All year long.

Price: 100ml for 105 Euros or in Australia it sells for $199AUD.

Alternatives: Parle Moi de Parfum Milky Musk, Hermes Santal Massoia.

All pictures are my own.