It’s fair to say that the French house Maison Crivelli has generated a lot of attention and enthusiasm on social media. Virtually always positive. That’s usually a red flag for me. So to see what all the fuss was about, I purchased a discovery set some time back, tried most of their line, and must say I’m more than a little disappointed with what I sampled. They’re not all ordinary, but in the main, the dry downs are flat and scratchy on quite a few.
The biggest letdown was Iris Malikhân, a scent many seem to have pegged as their favourite iris. It won’t be replacing Dior Homme as my favourite iris, nor will it be entering my iris hall of fame anytime soon. I won’t go through them all in any great detail, but let’s look at a few in today’s blog post. I may as well start with the iris.
Maison Crivelli – Iris Malikhân – This scent reminds me heavily of one of the leather scents from Memo. I think it was the Italian Leather. Maybe it’s the Irish Leather. I can’t remember, and it doesn’t matter because, sadly, it has the cheap leather accord that runs through much of that Memo collection. The opening is aromatic with a touch of galbanum pairing with dry powdery iris before they both fade away. And fade rather quickly to a nondescript modern base that leaves a lot to be desired. Amber woods, the aforementioned cheap leather, and synthetics dominate for the remainder of the scent. Hard to figure out what all the song and dance is about with this one.
Absinthe Boréale attempts to mix fougere/herbal notes with citruses and a bitter green wormwood accord. The blend smells off on my skin, oddly balanced, and I find L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Fou d’Absinth and Kilian’s L’Heure Verte a better representation of the “green fairy.” Santal Volcanique’s spicy combination of cardamom and ginger fails to add much spark to a flat sandalwood scent. I don’t pick up much of the promised coffee. Papyrus Moléculaire is a dry ill-fated woody scent in the same ballpark as Le Labo’s Santal 33, only not as good.
Citrus Batikanga at least tries to do something a little different. Bertrand Duchaufour combines bergamot with spicy facets of cardamom, chili pepper, and fenugreek. It is a novel interpretation of freshness, but I’m not sure it’s entirely successful, as it, like Absinthe Boréale, feels oddly balanced. Fleur Diamantine strikes a better balance. This green aromatic white floral where jasmine meets mint is worth checking out if you’re into those notes. The oakmoss in the base gives the scent an earthy, almost forest-like freshness. Rose SaltifOlia (yes, that’s a capital O) is a well-composed floral, fresh marine scent in the vein of D.S. & Durga’s Rose Atlantic. If you like that one, you’ll enjoy the Crivelli.
My favourite of the bunch is Bois Datchaï. The blackcurrant and cedar combo certainly conjures up memories of forest hikes. There’s more than a hint of the Serge Lutens classic Feminite du Bois in the mix. However, Bois Datchaï is a touch smokier with its tea and incense accord. Moreover, the fruits are toned down compared to the plum-fuelled Lutens. It makes me think of the colour purple. Dorethee Piot is the perfumer.
After sampling Maison Crivelli’s wares, I’m left quite disenchanted. In all honesty, I wouldn’t buy a full bottle of any of these. However, I did enjoy Bois Datchaï. There are quite a few from the brand I still need to sample, including a patchouli perfume composed by up-and-coming perfumer Quentin Bisch. The notes on that one look somewhat promising, but then again, so did the notes on the biggest letdown Iris Malikhân. I know this brand has many fans, I like the aesthetics, but the scents didn’t speak to me. Parfum d’Empire, a brand I liken a little to Maison Crivelli has a stronger range. Let me know if your experience with Maison Crivelli is similar or any different from mine.
I think you meant Russian Leather, in the comparison to the Iris. Great overview! I have tried only the iris so far and didn’t see them around here anymore, but I see them a lot on social media.
Thanks so much, Tetê. Yes, perhaps it was the Russian Leather I meant. Though, I recall liking the Russian Leather more than most of the other Memo. Let me know if you ever sample any of the others from Maison Crivelli.
I think you’ve gravitated toward the “lighter” ones in the collection while I preferred the darker or midtone ones (eg, Papyrus Moléculaire and Bois Datchaï as well). My favorite was Lys Sølaberg so I’ll be curious about your assessment of it if you try it. I kept getting a pineapple note from Iris Malikhân that I couldn’t reconcile. As for the new patchouli extrait, it didn’t agree with me at all, but maybe you’ll have better luck.
The newer ones like Lys, osmanthus and patchouli or on my to try list. I had such high hopes for the iris, and it was such a letdown when I sampled it. I don’t recall getting the pineapple note from it though, which is probably a good thing.
What a pity this brand didn’t do it for you, dear Daniel. I’m one of its fans in general. Coincidentally, founder Thibaud Crivelli was in South Africa last week. A pleasure to meet him.
That’s lovely, Rich. I’m sure he had a great time. There are still a few from the brand I need to sample. So, maybe I will still find a love.