Well, winter has almost arrived here in my part of the world. And this week, the weather has well and truly turned. Nothing but rain for the last few days. Unusually for South East Queensland, where we generally enjoy dry, sunny autumn/winter months. However, in typical annual fashion, the Snowflake tree in my backyard is flourishing and blooming. It flowers from early May through to late June. There’s no scent to the flowers, but it got me thinking (just like I did with my peach/orange rose) about which perfumes in my collection have an icy facet that would pair with this “winter wonder.”
The obvious choice was Frederic Malle, L’Eau d’Hiver. It translates to winter water. That one works all year round, and I did wear it a lot in the summertime. So I wanted to choose something else. Then it struck me Serge Lutens L’Eau Froide (cold water). I haven’t worn it a lot lately. Again, it works well all year round, but I rather enjoy the juxtaposition between hot and cold notes that Sheldrake presents in this much-maligned offering. I’ve reviewed it before on my blog. I gave it an 8, and I wouldn’t call it a masterpiece, but it’s much more clever than it is given credit for.
The official note listing for the scent includes marine notes, Somalian incense, mint, pepper, ginger, musk, and vetiver. Thanks to the fresh marine notes, herbal mint, and zingy ginger, it’s another scent that can be worn in any conditions. The incense takes centre stage and lends the composition an intriguing smoky veil of mystery. There aren’t too many incense scents as versatile as this one. The icy glacier metallic-like musks provide the cocoon, and the ginger and vetiver offer another layer of spicy/earthy interest.
It undeniably lives up to its name, but some may say it strays a little too close to laundry detergent territory. I don’t believe so, however. Unlike its less interesting counterpart L’Eau, Sheldrake’s expert use of warming notes in L’Eau Froide lifts this scent a couple of levels above the usual garden variety freshie. L’Eau Froide evokes images of foggy grey mornings on frozen lakes. It indeed pairs perfectly with my snowflake tree. I get the feeling I’ll be enjoying this perfume and my snowflake tree quite a lot this winter. There’s nothing garden variety about either in my book.
Some of the notes that get me thinking of cold and ice include iris, aldehydes, musk, and even things like mint and pine. There might be some pine in L’Eau Froide even though it isn’t listed. Do you have an icy perfume in your collection? What notes do you associate with coldness? Are you a fan of this Serge Lutens?
All images are my own.
I agree with you, Daniel. Serge Luten’s L’eau Froide is special and not at all the burnt variety of incense. It is cool, calm and collected. I just love this fragrance’s effervescent herbal and mineral qualities.
I’m glad you enjoy it too! It’s not one of the brand’s acclaimed releases. And yes, mineralic is a great description for L’Eau Froide.
Sounds like my kind of scent, dear Daniel. Lovely review and shots. The weather is also getting a bit cooler here in Johannesburg. Love it.
Thanks very much, Rich. Yes, I think it’s worth a try. Not a scent that gets a lot of press. Enjoy the cooler weather.
Beautiful pictures and great review, as always! I need to try this one!
Thank you very much, Tetê! I am intrigued to know what you think of it. Let me know when you try it.
The only “icy” perfume I can think of is Contradiction by Calvin Klein, which does this surprisingly with eucalyptus, I believe. I’m still figuring out L’Eau d’Hiver as it’s kind of both cool and warm to me in a strange, powdery way. Lovely snowflake flowers.
Thanks very much. Yes, L’Eau d’Hiver is a contrast between warm and cool also. Love that one. I need to revisit the CK.