Reviews – Guerlain – Habit Rouge

Guerlain – Habit Rouge EDT – All Time Classic 10/10.

So, the word is on the grapevine that Guerlain is coming up with a new flanker for their classic, Habit Rouge. L’Instinct is the name, and it features a green heart, including a cannabis note. The initial impressions I’ve read haven’t been overly complimentary. But I’ll reserve my judgment till I get to try it. Quite frankly, I haven’t tried any flankers that have complete duds. Heck, even the sport flanker had something to offer. Dress Code was always one I enjoyed, with its surprise sweet gourmand praline note that worked so beautifully. But let’s face it, most perfume flankers, like movie sequels, pale in comparison to the original. Therefore, with this new flanker on the horizon what better time than now to review the original classic from the French house.

Originally introduced in 1965, Habit Rouge, the first oriental for men, was seen as a masculine counterpart to Shalimar. They indeed share many of the same facets. And if you like that scent, you’ll probably enjoy Habit Rouge. This 1965 version was cologne strength, and the version I own is from circa 2005. It’s the EDT concentration, and undoubtedly, it’s received a few facelifts over the years, but the general classic Habit Rouge framework remains intact.

There’s no mistaking the opening blast of Habit Rouge. It smells like something from a bygone era. Even this latest version does not feel like a modern scent, it still feels decidedly old school, and that’s a good thing. I’m sick of all the woody ambers that saturate today’s market. All of them are overly chemical soulless concoctions. Habit Rouge feels like the very antithesis of this dreary dreck. The top notes are a traditional citrus sherbet mix. Mostly lemon, but there are also notes of orange, bergamot, lime, orange blossom, and tangerine. A tapestry of citruses woven deftly together, punchy, life-affirming, and bright. A light herbal note of basil hints at the outdoors.

Once the opening citrus notes burn off, Habit Rouge develops a floral/woody/spicy heart. The bouquet of florals includes rose, carnation, and jasmine. Rose and carnation are most prominent. The rose is fresh, enveloping, and even powdery. Charming and airy. The carnation brings a subtle clove-like spice. Dusty woods then mix with cinnamon in a spicy, sweet, cosy embrace.

The base of Habit Rouge is a juxtaposition of feminine and masculine. The vanilla and leather notes work in harmony. Vanilla in a men’s scent in 1965 seemed like a “far out” concept, but it adds yet another intriguing layer to Habit Rouge. A sweet, creamy layer. The leather is subtle but noticeable. Of course, a fragrance with an equestrian/horse riding theme had to have a leather accord. The leather feels clean, soapy, and somewhat smoky—a clean saddle.

Based on my review, it is evident that Habit Rouge has a clearly delineated top, mid, and base. Unquestionably, this sort of fragrance development seems to have been lost in mass-market scents of today. Inevitably, most rush far too quickly to their disappointing dry downs. In contrast, the multi-faceted Habit Rouge takes us on a ride. And it’s one hell of a ride. Habit Rouge isn’t an easy scent to classify. Is it a citrus? or a rose? Is it a leather or a vanilla? The truth is, it’s all those things wrapped together into a beautifully balanced, cohesive whole—wave after wave of intrigue.

Amazingly, one can purchase the scent for the cost of a niche brand’s discovery set. Incredible. That sure seems like a good deal to me. Much like Shalimar, I think both men and women can wear the scent. I don’t divvy out ten out of ten very often, but to not give Habit Rouge the perfect score would be practically criminal. Certainly, a classic, with an amalgam of notes that has struck a chord with generations of perfumistas. And will continue to do so. Do try it if you haven’t already done so.

Quick Notes:

Launch Year: 1965.

Perfumer: Jean-Paul Guerlain.

Top notes: Lemon, Brazilian rosewood, bergamot, orange, lime, tangerine, basil.

Mid notes: Rose, carnation, sandalwood, cinnamon, patchouli, jasmine, cedar.

Base notes: Vanilla, leather, amber, benzoin, oakmoss, labdanum. Prominent notes are in bold.

Longevity: 6-8 hours maximum.

Projection: 4 hours, medium.

Season: All year.

Price: 100ml, $60.00AUD. I’ve even seen it cheaper than this, you just need to hunt around.

Alternatives: Guerlain Shalimar. Tom Ford Noir for a more modern take on the scent.

All pictures are my own.