First Impressions – Spicy Scents – Penhaligon’s, Miller et Bertaux

Penhaligon’s – Babylon & Constantinople – I’ve been quite vocal in my disdain for a couple of scents in this “Trade Routes” line. In particular, Halfeti Leather, the variation on Halfeti that none of us needed. Well, me especially. However, two recent additions to the line that have surprised me are Babylon & Constantinople. Below are my initial impressions of both perfumes.

Babylon is a woody, spicy vanilla perfume. It develops with a distinct leathery touch courtesy of saffron. Babylon remains true to its name with the inclusion of spicy notes of nutmeg and coriander in keeping with the Middle Eastern theme. A point rammed home by the nagarmotha and smoky woods in the base. Quite literal in its interpretation, one can almost smell the smoke and embers billowing from the clay brick oven on the banks of the Euphrates. Yet, it’s the vanilla that dominates. Commendably though, it never becomes too sweet.

Babylon has a little more presence than Constantinople, thanks to its myriad of spice notes. It lasted 8 hours, with strong projection for the first 2 hours. Not too shabby for a Penhaligon’s, which are often fleeting on skin.

Constantinople is another take on vanilla. It’s less spicy and more of a creamy vanilla. But, the vanilla component is slightly stronger than Babylon’s. Overall, though, the perfume is lighter. Floral touches from iris and a rose/geranium combo give it a fresher feel than Babylon. These floral notes temper the woods in the base, which can often become overly harsh and screechy in this collection – Cairo and Halfeti flankers, I’m looking at you. The aromatic effect of the pine and lavender give it an almost airy lightness.

Indeed, it’s softer than Babylon, as it only lasted 4-5 hours before fading. I enjoy it, but I’m not sure it makes me think of Istanbul like L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Traversee du Bosphore does. Though, I must admit it isn’t easy to encapsulate a specific place into a scent, as everyone’s experience with a city/town/destination is different. Still, Constantinople remains a welcome departure from the scratchiness of some of the others in this line.

Miller et Bertaux – Malagasy – I have a huge soft spot for this brand. Very underrated and with a limited presence on the “social media” radar. Fragrances such as the fresh ambery in, and the citrus/coconut delight of New Study (Postcard) are among my favourites. And the dry sandalwood of Indian Study should be on every sandalwood lovers to try list.

Malagasy sees the brand in good form. The inspiration from Miller et Bertaux website:

“The evocation of a trip to the heart of the island of Madagascar, in search of a native plant. A treasure that bears the name of voatsiperifery, wild pepper.”

It’s an interesting spicy, earthy, smoky scent centred around caraway seed. Malagasy is savoury, peppery, and devoid of any sweetness and develops in a similar vein to Blackpepper by Comme des Garcons and Poivre Samarcande by Hermes. And much like the Hermes, the caraway almost smells like cumin at times. Therefore, not a scent for everyone, as cumin has that polarising effect. Malagasy has an earthy, ambery, smoky, woody finish as the patchouli, incense, labdanum, and guaiac wood permeate through. It’s worth trying if the Hermes and CDG scents are in your wheelhouse.

Have you tried these scents?

Note: Bottle images courtesy of Fragrantica. Samples purchased by the author.