Mini Reviews – Late 90’s Chanel & Boucheron

Chanel – Allure Homme – Workman-like Chanel 7/10

Jacques Polge composed the original Allure Homme in 1999. Hard to believe it is 23 years old. I don’t notice it around too often now, but it still retains a contemporary feel. It’s undoubtedly better than most things you can find on the department store shelves nowadays. A whole lot is going on in the composition. It’s a spicy aromatic with a sweet, fruity, citrusy opening of lemon, ginger, lavender, and peach. Later, spices (pepper), a light floral medley, and earthy wood notes (cedar, patchouli) kick in before it dries down to a tonka, vanilla base.

I don’t think one can say it stacks up to the likes of Egoiste, Pour Monsieur, and Antaeus in the Chanel annals of greatness. However, it’s perhaps a little less divisive than those classics. Allure Homme lasts approximately 6-8 hours before fading to a skin scent. I like to wear it now and then to revel in the nostalgia.

Jaipur Homme – Spice Heaven from Annick – 8.5/10

Annick Menardo has a strong resume. Many classic scents. One of my favourites from her is this 1998 release for Boucheron. Jaipur Homme is heavy on spices. The cardamom in the initial stages soon gives way to a cinnamon heart. Cinnamon is the dominant feature. The accompanying floral flourish of carnation, jasmine and rose gives Jaipur Homme an old-school feel. It has a powdery facet that reminds me a little of Habit Rouge, thus hammering home that classic vibe. The creamy, balmy benzoin and vanilla in the base reminds me of Givenchy Pi. Think of it as a bridge between old and new. Superb. I own the EDT, which was released interestingly one year after the EDP originally appeared.

The differences between the EDT & EDP are not stark. For instance, performance-wise, both scents give me about 8-10 hours. They’re both spicy cinnamon vanilla scents with a powdery aspect. Not surprisingly, the EDP is thicker, richer, and to my nose, a touch sweeter. In terms of versatility, the EDT is the winner. However, both are fantastic options. I’ve got no idea how recent formulations smell, but they’re worth seeking out to see which one works best on your skin. In fact, most of Annick Menardo’s work is worth seeking out.

Note: Images are my own.