First Impressions – New Leather – Memo Paris & Naomi Goodsir

Memo Paris – Sicilian Leather –Another disappointing release from the brand. There’s not much in the way of leather in this composition. I mainly pick up a slew of bitter citruses (oranges and limes) mixed in with a cedarwood note. Sicilian Leather has been compared to Dior Fahrenheit, but I fail to see the approximation. It contains a muted violet leaf note and very little leather. It doesn’t deliver on its pledge of “zest and volcano.” Unfortunately, the “eruptive” leather accord promised in the nonsensical promo material goes missing somewhere on the treacherous slopes of Mount Etna. Neither firey nor interesting, but most definitely overpriced.

Naomi Goodsir – Corpus Equus – Thankfully, we have Bertrand Duchaufour and Naomi Goodsir. They’ve teamed up before to great effect on Or du Serail. Corpus Equus is the brand’s sixth fragrance. Only six fragrances in ten years prove we have a brand that takes its time, putting out quality release after release. Corpus Equus is billed as an artistic interpretation of a firey and untamed horse. 

Corpus Equus opens with a blast of smoky leather. At this point, the horse is untamed, wild, and free. This dark brooding leather is heavy birch dominant giving Corpus Equus a raw edge. Indeed, there is a similar smokiness to Bois d’Ascese. But Corpus Equus is less bbq smoke and more wearable. It’s undoubtedly animalic, though, as it reminds me of the horse’s saddle. Nothing pungent, however. I liken it to birch compositions such as Le Labo Patchouli 24 and Cuir de Russie. It’s certainly hard-hitting, perhaps even divisive in the opening.

It reminds me of the horse’s stable, perhaps, when the woods come in after half an hour and soften everything. There’s an airiness to Corpus Equus courtesy of some light florals (rose). It’s barely perceptible, but it provides a welcome divergence from the heavier notes. Indeed, these heavy notes could have been overwhelming in the hands of a less experienced perfumer. Yet, Duchaufour has crafted a perfume where the heaviness of the opening gradually fades into a smoky, musky, ambery base with a touch of sweetness. I love the contrast.

By the closing stages, the horse is at one with the wearer and tamed. The saddle has turned into a leather couch, and the horse has joined us to smoke a few cigars. Now, that would be a sight to behold. Very nice work in this exhilarating example of equine excellence. Undoubtedly, it would have made my best-of list if I had tried it last year.

Have you tried these leather scents?

Note: Bottle images courtesy of Fragrantica. Samples purchased by the author.